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rocketparrotlet

Classic Index moderates on the UTW?

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I was browsing a thread on Supertopo and I saw this:

 

"What's really weird about Index is that although the Lower Wall and the Davis-Holland area of the Upper Wall are now almost always so crowded that virtually every route has a line-up, most of the Upper Wall areas, and often many of the little sub-crags, are still empty.

 

Example: Darryl climbed a three-pitch gem on the Upper Wall five or six years ago. Beautiful climbing, with one of the longest pitches at Index, good pro, a summit top-out, and... Drum Roll... NOT HARD!!!!

 

[explanation] For those of you not familiar with Index, its biggest drawback (aside from being wet in winter) is the almost complete lack of moderate routes. [end explanation]

 

So, for there to be a new 3-pitch 10a trad gem about 5 minutes from the popular Davis-Holland area, should have drawn hordes. HORDES.

 

Not at Index.

 

Mari & I got on it last summer, five years after the first ascent -- five years -- and as far as I can tell we were maybe the fourth or fifth party to climb it. We recommended it to a friend, and he came back saying "Best moderate route at Index." -

 

 

What is this route mentioned? I want to climb it. Are there any other similar hidden gems that are 5.10- or so? On a similar note, how is Dana's Arch after the sport bolted section?

 

-Mark

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Rattle Tale is pretty nice 5.10, not hard, just pumpy on the second pitch (steep locking hand jams).

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I think that route is DGS. Darryl's site has beta for it.

 

There is also a thread on that site regarding Dana's arch.

 

edit: I agree Rattle Tail and Private Idaho all have a good selection of 5.10 and easier.

Edited by orion_sonya

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If you want to get better you need to climb harder climbs, whether following others, toproping, or dogging up routes. No amount of 5.8 and 9 routes will prepare you to climb 11s. If your goal is to climb a ton of 8s and 9s you can always go to Ltown.

 

You can throw yourself on trad routes that are over your head provided the combination of the route and your rack allow you to plug in pieces and hang when needed. A stick clip can help you get up sport routes. There is no shame in dogging up a route so you can then work it on toprope. Safety is the most important priority. You may want to save some of the best routes to try to lead onsight when you get stronger.

 

Be safe and have fun and save the stumps!

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There are plenty of moderates at Index, you just have to be creative to link them up. Here's another option for you: Take Lizard/Aries (tons of variations) to the top of the LTW, then scramble up from there to the Winkie Dinkie Cliff and do Gorilla My Dreams (you can also throw in Timberjack while you're up there for extra milage) and then scramble up from the top of GMD to the Mid Wall and do Plum Pudding (there are a couple other good moderates up there as well). The hardest pitch in that linkup is GMD which is rated 10a. (BTW - GMD is bolted like a sport climb, but I highly recommend bringing a few pieces to protect getting to that first clip.) You can also do the same linkup starting with Roger's Corner and Breakfast of Champions, but it's a bit harder that way. If you return to the base of the LTW by hiking out the Mid Wall trail, you can also hit #9 and Starfish, which are both entertaining moderates located near the Blues Cliff. (Check out RCNW for details on those two, as they are relatively new). You can also descend from the Mid Wall by rapping, and if you choose that option, I'd recommend scrambling down to the anchors for Dr. Sniff (follow the trail down from Winkie Dinkie toward the top of Breakfast then go skier's left to the Dr. Sniff anchors). That way you can top rope it on your way down. Never a lineup on that one. After toproping it, you'll see why. Can't wait for Index season!

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There are plenty of moderates at Index, you just have to be creative to link them up. Here's another option for you: Take Lizard/Aries (tons of variations) to the top of the LTW, then scramble up from there to the Winkie Dinkie Cliff and do Gorilla My Dreams (you can also throw in Timberjack while you're up there for extra milage) and then scramble up from the top of GMD to the Mid Wall and do Plum Pudding (there are a couple other good moderates up there as well). The hardest pitch in that linkup is GMD which is rated 10a. (BTW - GMD is bolted like a sport climb, but I highly recommend bringing a few pieces to protect getting to that first clip.) You can also do the same linkup starting with Roger's Corner and Breakfast of Champions, but it's a bit harder that way. If you return to the base of the LTW by hiking out the Mid Wall trail, you can also hit #9 and Starfish, which are both entertaining moderates located near the Blues Cliff. (Check out RCNW for details on those two, as they are relatively new). You can also descend from the Mid Wall by rapping, and if you choose that option, I'd recommend scrambling down to the anchors for Dr. Sniff (follow the trail down from Winkie Dinkie toward the top of Breakfast then go skier's left to the Dr. Sniff anchors). That way you can top rope it on your way down. Never a lineup on that one. After toproping it, you'll see why. Can't wait for Index season!

 

What you have described has been on my mind for a long time! My plan was to head up some route on GNS, do Timberjack, Plum Pudding, then Waiting for the Sun...sounds awesome however you slice it. Plenty up there that I've never had a chance to do. I'll probably throw a rope over Thin Fingers on the way down.

 

Another plan of mine is to do Princely Ambitions pitch 1 and 2, then Lamar's Trust. Does that top out the Lower Wall?

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What you have described has been on my mind for a long time! My plan was to head up some route on GNS, do Timberjack, Plum Pudding, then Waiting for the Sun...sounds awesome however you slice it.

 

FYI, you can't get from the top of the Timberjack to the next tier very easily. It would involve a 5th class dirt romp and would be pretty scary. Gorilla My Dreams is a much better option for this linkup.

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