pu Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 Trip: Canada - Guinness, Guinness Stout, Murchison, Twisted Date: 3/19/2011 Trip Report: Greatest Hits B side. Jason Baker aka Skatan and I headed to Canada to get some more ice done before I get distracted by warm spring rock climbs. Fortunately it has not been warm or dry in N Idaho so it was easy to go to Canada. Day One. Guinness and Guinness Stout. Jason had never been on Guinness and I had never done Guinness Stout so it seemed like a good way to get rolling. Pitch 1 of Guinness is a little bony right now, but the rest is fat. Guinness Stout had a trail beat in which made the hike tolerable. We skirted the two short steps and just did the 35M upper curtain. It was pumpy. Jason finishes it up here. Day Two. Murchison. The one that got away. I had some bad memories of my last attempt on Murchison plaguing me so I was pretty whiny on the approach. My previous attempt was foiled by shitty ice, postholing, and a wounded flask. This time was much different. Nice trail. Excellent ice, easy for the grade. Spectacular scenary finish. After soloing the first 40 M we were able to do this in a 70 M and 75 M pair of pitches. Day Three. Twisted. It was formed up as a mostly ice line. Very little mixed climbing required. Photos don't do it justice. First pitch 30 M WI 3 to fixed belay. Our second pitch went up the ice for 50 M. Then a 40 M WI 4 finish. The second pitch was pretty bongy. Might not be around much longer. Twisted is on the Left. Glan Managerie is on the right. Tons of fun. Good Partner. Bring on Spring!! Approach Notes: Follow the trails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skatan Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 Great trip thought I'd throw in a few more pics. Joe on Pitch 1 of Guinness & Guinness Stout Had to throw in a color pic of Murchison Twisted Joe is right pictures don't do it justice Joe on the second pitch of twisted If you still have the itch Canada has the cure As always good times climbing with Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Nice trip. I've never done the Stout, it always seemed like a long slog breaking trail. Twisted looks really cool, have not done that one, looks excellent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fultonville Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Outstanding! Hope there's some of that left when I get back. Still waiting for that trip report on Chilco ;-j Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Yes Guinness was thin of first pitch in December. How was avi hazard on Twisted approach? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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