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telemarker

Newly Bolted Route: Sunshine Wall

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If you were to onsight lead this, it would easily be in the 5.11+ range. So far my weeny ass has only done a bunch of solo toprope laps on it. The first ascentionist, Dave Moroles, onsighted it pre-bolts on what must have been desperately tiny rp's. Then apparently strolled next door and onsighted Red m 'n m's. The guy is incredible.

 

A clarification: Dave bolted his route, but you still need a couple small cams near the top, which isn't readily apparent at the base of the climb.

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Oh, and it's definitely not the average Vantage sport climb of 70' of repetitive moves. It's got a fun variety of moves.

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Yeah, super Dave indeed. Too bad that Dr. Paddle video of his free soloing laps on brass balls, the bone,etc. isn't around anymore. Like water flowing over rock, against gravity. He's a joy to watch, but frustrating since he makes it all look effortless.

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Well, since no one has barraged me with the appropriate spray to my original query, I will take the liberty to do so: "you see, John, there are these handy things called 'guide books' where they have, like, names of climbs 'n shit. The name of the climb, located in the 'guide book' is Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down. 5.11c"

 

 

Okay, carry on...

 

Thanks for the cool vids!

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wow Thank You for all the kind words! Im just seeing this thread.

 

route name has been shorten to "Pants Down"

 

Yes back in mid 90s just went for the no prerehersal lead. thankfully it went good gear was super bad but cimbing was great.Yoder said it was an FFA. now roughly 15yrs later just thought it would be nice to put some bolts and anchor on the route.

 

I hope this doesnt offend anybody. Im not replacing choped bolts or getting invovled in any debates. I dont know any of the story of who bolted or choped Red m&ms I do know Red m&ms is super great grear compared to Pants Down.

 

Thanks again ,Dave M

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Hah, you've just gotta love all the thumbs up for "Pants Down." Points to Telemarker for answering his own question and sharing it with us.

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Cheers for the route. I was glad to have a couple small cams for the top.

 

I remember Dave soloing past me on castle rock twice, as he did laps on the lower half. That was mega. I always thought there was something else rather meditative going on while while he climbed. Quite inspiring.

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Had a chance to get on the line this last weekend, definitely one of the better lines in the area. Techy, fun, and would second bringing some small cams for the finish.

 

:brew:

 

.

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