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[TR] norway - vang - some more routes 3/8/2011


spionin
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Trip: norway - vang - some more routes

 

Date: 3/8/2011

 

Trip Report:

after leaving Bergen, we had only a few days left before flying out. we decided to spend a few more days climbing inland, and headed to the region of Oppland, just west of Lillehammer.

 

our friend (and local hardman) Øyvind had mentioned seeing mad ice around Lillehammer in January, so that was a great suggestion. also, this site has a nice map with clickable locations, which sealed the deal: http://www.isklatring.no/kart.html. off to the Valdres district we went!

 

oh, and the weather looked great (notice a pattern here??)

weather-fagernes.jpg

 

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03/07: drive east to Vang

03/08: climb some big ice line (~200m)

03/09: climb Drøsja (~180m)

03/10-03/12: Oslo, fly back to Seattle

 

despite some information about the general area, we once again didn't have a definite climbing plan or lodging this time. we decided to drive to Vang/Fagernes area and just stop whenever we saw something worth climbing. HA!

 

the drive was painful. we could have stopped every 10 minutes along our 280 km route. consider this image and the striking ice line visible from afar.

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and as we got closer

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it's difficult to communicate its actual size. this is the type of stuff we had to deal with on our way east.

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when we finally decided to stop, we had to find housing. it seems that most huts were closed for the season, or we couldn't find owners to ask about rental. we literally went around knocking on doors, and came across Skogheim hytter. the owner, Tormod, agreed to rent us a hut - and gave us an amazing deal! our mountain palace could sleep 6, had a wood burning stove, a full kitchen, and sat on top of a cliff... 2 minutes away from the lines we were hoping to climb!

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roughing it at breakfast

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anyways, our 1st day there (8th day in Norway, and 5th day climbing overall) we climbed this:

vang1.jpg

 

the approach took us up a powdery drainage and to a couple of ice steps.

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Doug chose the very stout pillar for p1 (about 45m)

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i followed up with a long moderate pitch (60m)

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two more moderate rope stretch pitches took us up to a large snow shelf

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there's all the ice above too, but we couldn't even see it through the trees, and the prospect of hiking up through deep powder wasn't very appealing. it was mid-day and we felt that we got our fill with the steep pitches we'd climbed. ah, the luxury! as in Eidfjord, all raps were off v-threads and trees.

 

guess what we found on the approach??!

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another C-T hammer hard at work!

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after some serious banging, we succeeded at breaking the skull and splitting the antlers. we shipped them home, but will probably need to treat them somehow before hanging on the wall. if anyone has suggestions for killing off the current residents of the marrow, please let me know.

 

 

the 2nd day we climbed a huge flow east of our previous day's line.

drosja.jpg

 

this line is also described in this guide: http://www.isklatring.no/valdres/drosja.html and this overview of the area: http://www.isklatring.no/valdres/vangsmjosa_nord.html. it's listed as a 70m route, but really the ice goes on and on... we pitched out 4 sections totaling at least 180m, and there was a snow walk in-between.

 

it was amazing, what can i say?

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as usual, Doug took the odd- and I, the even-numbered pitches.

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long, sustained pitches. warm sun. no belay jackets. sparkling ice!

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INTENSE CLIMBING! :)

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last swings...

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and another completed climb to bring a stellar finish to our norwegian vacation.

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That last shot is awesome. Congrats you two, thats a total dream ice vacation!

 

I have an ice climbing pal who was UK-based for quite some time and between Norway for ice climbing (he had climbed in Telemark as well) and Chamonix for accessible winter alpine climbing it sounded like real good options with any kind of time off!

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I'm pretty sure the creatures feeding on the marrow are doing you a favor (provided that you keep them outside). Bugs are a time tested technique for cleaning nasty bits off rotten bones/antlers. Leave the rack outside for the summer (out of the sun- better yet, bury it) and you should be good to go.

 

If you want to speed things up, and have access to a huge pot and large propane burner, you can boil them. It'll stink, so don't even think of doing it inside.

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thanks much!

 

If you want to speed things up, and have access to a huge pot and large propane burner, you can boil them. It'll stink, so don't even think of doing it inside.

 

mmm! maggot soup!

i think i'll leave this option until after i let the antlers spend a hot, dry summer vacation in eastern washington.

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Here's an interesting angle- these are Norwegian bugs right? There usually isn't much good that comes out of transporting bugs across continents, but if they are just house fly larvae, that cat got out of the Central Asian bag long ago . . .Still, you can see how species move all around!

 

 

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