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vsigler

Old Chute direct from Illuminationn Rock?

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I will be on Mt. Hood, camping at Illumination Rock, in early June. It appears from photos that a route directly from I-Rock to the Old Chute (west side of Crater Rock) would save considerable time over traversing to the east side of Crater Rock and climbing the Hogsback, only to then traverse back to the Old Chute (assuming the PGs are in poor shape). Is this possible at that time of year? Also, how long should the climb from I-Rock to the summit take? I'm assuming a reasonably fit climber could do it in about two hours?

Thanks in advance.

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Yeah, it is called the ZigZag or as I know it the Mazama route. A nice enough variation though it can have avy danger. One can traverse over to the old chute or gain the ridge a bit earlier and traverse along it.

 

As for the time required - a reasonably fit climber can do the route from Timberline in 3-4 hours.

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Or you could mix things up even more and drop down just a tad toward the Reid Headwall and purposely climb to West Crater from there. Although you may as well climb the Headwall or Leutholds at that point, assuming they aren't already raining ice.

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Watch out for rockfall coming off Crater Rock though if it's even borderline on the warmer side.....buddy and I did that a couple years back and damn near got taken out by some bowling ball sized rocks....Traversing higher up might be better, but those slopes are also pretty avy prone.

 

Wow, 3-4 hours from the lodge? That's impressive....I'm in pretty decent shape but haven't ever managed to get up there that fast.

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Ptown climber1, with regard to rockfall, I assume you are speaking abut traversing from I-Rock, beneath Crater Rock (south of), toward the trad route, correct? And when you say traversing higher up, you mean stayng west of Crater Rock to get to the Old Chute, right?

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No, I mean skirting up the left side of it.....what some would call West Crater Rim......making your way up from below, initially you're still in the fall line for any shit that decides to slough off.....that's why I threw out perhaps starting higher up on the left side, away from the rock....seemed pretty steep to me however.

Camping at I-Rock is a classic Hood experience though...lots of fun. Our original intent was Reid Headwall, but listening to the ice funnel through it all night gave us the creeps, so we opted for West Crater....not the best decision I've ever made either.....but if it's cold and solid, then no big deal. Good luck!

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Thanks for all of the great input. I will have a couple of first-timers with me, so I will probably stick to the original plan of simply traversing back to the traditional route and move up east of Crater Rock. Keep it simple for them. I will be attempting the Reid Headwall a few days earlier, so I'm sure that will satisfy my need for technicality. Again thanks a lot.

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Good idea. We will be on/around the mountain for three days, so we might just do one night at I-Rock, and then a second at Twin Rocks before the summit climb on the third day.

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If the snow is gone left of crater rock, be prepared to pick your way through some REALLY smelly vents and slippery mushy clay footing. It sucks. Go right of C. Rock, its worth it

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