eldiente Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 (edited) Trip: Mt Wilson Red Rocks - Pink Tornado Left- Dogma (attempt) Date: 3/3/2011 Trip Report: This past week was an urban climbing trip to Vegas and LA. Every day included at least one stop at a strip mall and a drive on the freeway. Mostly a social trip with some good friends. Day-1: Sport wank sunny and steep wall Calico Basin Red Rocks Day-2: Attempt Dogma on Mt. Wilson, Pink Tornado Left actual. Day-3: Urban bouldering. Stoney Point LA county. Day-4: Urban Sport wank: Malibu Creek State Park. Mount Wilson: Pink Tornado Left: 5.9+ 1,000 feet. Looking through my journal this is my 11th trip to Red Rocks and I have yet to step foot on the summit of Mt Wilson. I really really really wanted to climb Mt Wilson, it is most obvious wall there and HUGE. Unfortunately most of my trips to RR have been in the Spring/Fall when the days are cold and short, not really good for such a big wall that goes into the shade at noon. No matter, I was stubborn on this one and talked Caleb into trying a route on Mt.Wilson despite the obvious snow cover. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XNueStDVX8c/TXAAxlhyZ7I/AAAAAAAALi4/m7OPBo9uHbQ/s640/topo.jpg[/img] Pink Tornado follows blue dots to Sherwood Forrest, Dogma (5.11C) goes for another 1,500 feet up the headwall to the summit. There are several big (20+pitches) routes up Mt Wilson, we decided on Dogma as this routes has the least amount of moderate pitches and with bolted belays you can bail at any point. The plan was to take Pink Tornado up to the Sherwood Forest and join with Dogma for the head wall pitches. Unfortunately when we got to Sherwood the slabs were coved in ice and it was cold so we punted and rapped the lower 10 pitches of Dogma back to the gully. Pink Tornado Left is a fun outing on it's own, the views are great and I bet almost nobody goes back there, very much an alpine feel. (or maybe it was the snow drifts?) Added bonus, you can leave your shoes and pack at the base if you knew you weren't going to tag the summit. Beta here is good. Sorry not many pictures, camera died. A few notes. P1.5.9+ Some OW climbing on sandy rock, crux is pulling bulge from a chimney where the flakes end. Moving left from the flake across the chimney gap is whacky, jump across 5' gap onto 200' tall block to the left and OW up this thing to pedestal belay. Long pitch, rope drag. P2. 5.9 splitter hands, back-up awful belay bolts with #2 or #3. P3. 5.8 short pitch through roof OW. Face climb on jugs or climb OW P4. 5.8 long pitch, 190 feet. Obvious crack, wide at times but typical Red Rocks style face holds all over. P5. 5.7 Bus sized cave/chimney system, go LEFT of this on run-out but easy face climbing to pedestal. P6. 5.9 RAD. 240 feet (need 70 to reach anchors with a little simul) Go up endless flared crack mixed in with the usual face holds. P7. 5th class. Go up slabs and waterfalls to Sherwood Forest. Rap down lower Dogma. First rap is from a tree right in the middle of Sherwood Forest and goes down terrain that you could probably down climb. Raps are slow at first through bushy terrain. We had a 65M rope and were very short on one of the raps, had to re-rig the ropes and rap off a single bolt to get to the anchors. Even a 70M rope might leave you short. Bring tat for the anchors, some are old/worn. Thoughts on Dogma. We never actually climbed any part of Dogma, however we rapped the lower half of Dogma and the lower pitches look like shit. If I were doing it again, I'd still climb Pink Tornado to get access to the upper half of Dogma. The Horseshoe wall (upper Dogma) looks amazing, sort of like Black Velvet wall but steeper. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XNueStDVX8c/TXAAvnJ12aI/AAAAAAAALic/rkv1-pL_f5w/s640/P1020717.JPG[/img] The approach to Pink Tornado using the "sketchy" version as described by the guide book. Really awful here, 1' wide foot ledge that crumbles to the touch with 100' foot cliff under foot. Next time I'd use the "less sketchy" approach. [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XNueStDVX8c/TXAA10MWHzI/AAAAAAAALjg/Jxk0_3htvG4/s512/IMG_2862.jpg[/img] Sherwood Forest. Dogma goes up near the water streak behind my shoulder. How about some sunny climbing pictures? [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XNueStDVX8c/TXAAqgE5HqI/AAAAAAAALhU/XCsd6pKq4dk/s512/P1020695.jpg[/img] Atman, Calico Basin Red Rocks. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XNueStDVX8c/TXAArgnFNKI/AAAAAAAALhk/MmfY1VLtltA/s512/P1020700.jpg[/img] Atman top-out. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XNueStDVX8c/TXAAu9PEV9I/AAAAAAAALiQ/__zT9681WDM/s512/P1020713.jpg[/img] Unknown 5.12. Sunny and Steep Wall. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XNueStDVX8c/TXAAyd0nu1I/AAAAAAAALjA/XChQZaV0wYE/s720/Screen%20shot%202011-03-03%20at%2012.41.19%20PM.png[/img] Zach at Stoney Point, LA county. How the hell did the stone masters get so strong climbing on such shitty rock? Very soft sandstone with many drilled and chipped holds, some of the routes had no natural holds, only drilled pockets. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XNueStDVX8c/TXAAzEZP5zI/AAAAAAAALjE/tL6PR1HJC8A/s720/Screen%20shot%202011-03-03%20at%2012.43.34%20PM.png[/img] Caleb, Stoney Point [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XNueStDVX8c/TXAA0MXtPYI/AAAAAAAALjM/_94oH1j2AsQ/s512/Screen%20shot%202011-03-03%20at%2012.45.41%20PM.png[/img] Malibu Creek State park, unknown 5.10+ Rock feels a lot like limestone, very sharp and overhanging on pockets. Crux of this place is the approach, 5th class soloing over a flooded stream to get to the routes. One party fell in and had to be rescued by S&R via boat. Those Cali kids don't do so well with streams. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XNueStDVX8c/TXAA0ZKyPXI/AAAAAAAALjQ/TOoISux9_68/s512/Screen%20shot%202011-03-03%20at%2012.47.00%20PM.png[/img] Zach climbing "Delicious" 5.10D. Unlike most of the routes at Malibu this one is long, 14 bolts and overhanging the whole way on jug pockets. Gear Notes: Pink Tornado. We took singles to #4 with doubles of fingers. Many of the pitches have wide crack (face climb around them) so taking extra #2-#4 might not be a bad idea. Tat for the raps anchors on Dogma. Approach Notes: Pink Tornado. 2 hours from Old Oak Creek. First bit is easy, last part involves much gully bushwhacking. Shoot a picture from the highway the day before going in and read the guidebook closely. Edited March 3, 2011 by eldiente Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teh Phuzzy Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Good pix and it looks like you had fun. Way to get after it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 I heard that there was some cool stuff in the sherwood forest, like maybe a wooden hovel or bivy of such...did you see anything? I have always wanted to go camp up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 very cool! have you ever done resolution arete? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Geez whats with the graffiti? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson.g Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Geez whats with the graffiti? LA county Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 powderhound. The Sherwood Forest is cool as shit! I kept wishing we'd get benighted so we could stay up there for the night, build a fire and watch the City. I didn't see any evidence of bivy shelters but saw many good spots for a bivy. Firewood, running water, what more could you want? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 (edited) Pink- No this was my first time climbing anything on Wilson.The question that comes to mind is; what's the best route to the summit of Mt Wilson? Resolution looks great but I hear rumors of choss rock. Inti Wanta looks cruiser but maybe just a monotonous clip up? Women of Mt dreams takes on the main wall, perhaps this is the best route on Mt Wilson? I'd like to try at least one of these routes at some point. -Nate Edited March 4, 2011 by eldiente Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Inti Wanta to the upper part of resolution was done by two buddies of mine when i was down there last. 2200 feet. huge day. they topped out at sunset and spent a cold night bivy in the desert. However they did say that it was upper portion of resolution was a wild ride more bold than hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Good times on Mt wilson! I've made it to the top once (resolution arete),ran out of gas on Dogma, did what we thought was Pink Tornado left to just below Sherwood forest and blazed up Inti Watani once. We did the rap from a single bolt thing due to only having a sixtymeter going down dogma too The sketchy way across to Dogma and Pink T L was pretty good for the first 2 of those trips, it must have been the early oughts when it fell apart. The workaround is not that bad with only a little loss of hard won elevation and a cool tunnel section as of 5 years ago. That woman of mountain dreams definitely looks stellar to me. Inti Watani is a sheep in wolfs clothing, I'm sure the fastest route to Sherwood forest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstefurak Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Someone mentioned that there is running water in the Sherwood Forest. Is this a seasonal thing due to snow or can I expect to find water there the first weekend of April? Anyone have more shots or comments on the approach. I've been to the base of Inti and am guessing you go a similar way up the White Rot and then cut down and left to Dogma, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 (edited) There was water up there two weeks ago, but it looked like mostly snow melt, If you can see any snow at all from the parking lot, I'd say you should be fine. If no snow, I don't think there would be any water. Hike-in, see image below. The blue dots are for the "sketchy" version as per the guidebook. It Involves a dirty 4th class traverse and a wet/lose 5th class pitch to gain the gully. Go up like you are going to Inti Wantana but head left before going up into the Inti gully. Edit. "Start" is for Pink Tornado, not Dogma. Dogma is up the gully climbers left another 20-30 minutes. Edited March 11, 2011 by eldiente Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 You're right, take a left when you top out the gully on the way to Res A and Inti. Head down a wide trundly slide till you can head back up the well shadowed gully in ED's pic. The first part of Dogma has a couple very nice pitches but the rest is just OK. We parked at the abandoned campground right off the highway to get an early start. Theres a well established track till you get behind the Pimple and head up the climbers trail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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