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Grigri 2


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I've gotten to use my Grigri2 a bit and have formed a few opinions about it. All the reviews of it so far have been glowing and I feel like some reality needs to be injected into the discussion.

 

When comparing the Grigri 2 to its predecessor the pros are:

-Smoother lowering. I've tried it with several rope diameters and this has universally been true. I've yet to try the second generation on a wet rope; that will be the litmus test. I suspect it will be better than it's predecessor.

-Lighter/more compact.

 

The cons are:

-The 2 does not handle fatter ropes very well. I've used it with 11mm static line and fat old gym ropes. It is hard to pull these ropes through the device and quite difficult feeding rope. -With more "normal" sized ropes (~10mm), it works just fine although the 1st generation still feeds these ropes easier. I've never been in to lead belaying with a Grigri but those that do might want to borrow a 2nd generation before spending the money.

-The handle is shorter. Minor gripe.

-The cam is shorted and harder to manipulate for feeding rope quickly. This compounds the rope feeding problem.

-Although I gave up on TR-soloing with a Grigri a while ago, I really wouldn't consider it with the new model. It's so much more compact that the path that the rope takes through the device is more abrupt.

 

I'll probably end up using the two models at different times. The old model for use with fat ropes and static lines. The new model for cragging.

 

 

I'd like to hear other people's opinions on the new model.

 

 

Chad

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I think I like the old one slightly better (it may become a cult classic)....

As for the usage on skinny ropes, I use my old grigri on ropes down to 9.1mm with no problem.

The old grigri gives much quicker feeds than the new model.

The new model is tougher to use with ropes even at 9.9mm+

The weight and size advantages of the new model are non issues for me because my grigri is for the sport crag and stays on the ground. (although occasionally it will go on a wall).

Lowering with the new model isn't the magic it is made out to be.

The old model is made from bombproof steel.

.....That being said, the new Petzl grigri is still 100 times better than any of the other competing devices; faders, mammut, trango-cinch, etc. Petzl is pretty much the gold standard for gear in the sports we do.

Edited by Jens
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Thanks for the report and offering it to me as a loaner Chad. I like that it's lighter than my Cinch!

 

 

Strangely, the official weight given by Petzl for the Grigri 2 appears to be heavier than the actual weight of the unit.

 

Using my digital scale, the first generation Grigri weighs 224 grams (specified at 225 grams). The Grigri 2 weighs 169 grams (specified at 185 grams). I suspect that the scale is fairly accurate given that the official weight stated for the Trango Cinch is 182 grams and our hands-on "testing" clearly showed the Cinch to be slightly heavier than the Grigri2.

 

 

Chad

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"Although I gave up on TR-soloing with a Grigri a while ago, I really wouldn't consider it with the new model. It's so much more compact that the path that the rope takes through the device is more abrupt."

 

Your photo doesn't seem to support this claim. There seems to be an equal number of tracer twists running over the cam. The body has obviously been retooled but other than making the groove deeper there seems to be very little altered as far as the geometry of the braking mechanism.

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Your photo doesn't seem to support this claim. There seems to be an equal number of tracer twists running over the cam. The body has obviously been retooled but other than making the groove deeper there seems to be very little altered as far as the geometry of the braking mechanism.

 

 

It may not be obvious from the pictures but the cam on the new model is slightly bigger and the body of the device is smaller than its predecessor. The rope, any rope, has to bend at a tighter radius when entering and exiting the device. Try it out, let me know what you think.

 

I thought that the 2 was going to be an improved version of its predecessor. What I've found is that it's better in some regards and good in certain applications but hardly a jack of all trades. A lot of people are going to love it. I just got rid of mine this afternoon.

 

 

Chad

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I thought that the 2 was going to be an improved version of its predecessor. What I've found is that it's better in some regards and good in certain applications but hardly a jack of all trades. A lot of people are going to love it. I just got rid of mine this afternoon.

 

Wait...?! To clarify, you just got rid of that Gri Gri2 you JUST bought like a week ago?

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I thought that the 2 was going to be an improved version of its predecessor. What I've found is that it's better in some regards and good in certain applications but hardly a jack of all trades. A lot of people are going to love it. I just got rid of mine this afternoon.

 

Wait...?! To clarify, you just got rid of that Gri Gri2 you JUST bought like a week ago?

 

 

Yes, got rid of it. The one you fondled. I used it several times yesterday at Rocky Butte and it solidified my impression that it was not the tool for me.

 

 

Chad

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RE: Maxim Glider - HOLY IMPACT FORCE BATMAN! 9.5+kN! Jeebus. I thought Mammuts were bad.

 

LOVE my GriGri 2. It's 100% correct that 10mm+ ropes will be a bit tough to feed. That said, I can now use the "new" technique with the GG2. Something I never could quite get comfortable with with the GG1. No a huge deal but I like it.

 

The Lowering in my experience is VASTLY improved with the GG2. I never had an issue with the GG1 but it was quite an on or off kind lower. My wife hated the old GG1 because of this. She felt she had less control with it. The new GG2 does have a 2 stage lower where the release of the rope "eases in". It's noticeable and awesome.

 

 

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The Lowering in my experience is VASTLY improved with the GG2. I never had an issue with the GG1 but it was quite an on or off kind lower. My wife hated the old GG1 because of this. She felt she had less control with it. The new GG2 does have a 2 stage lower where the release of the rope "eases in". It's noticeable and awesome.

 

 

 

I agree. Whatever they did with the cam shape seems to have alleviated the on/off nature of the old device. Hopefully this will translate to less frequent reports of partners being dropped by panicked belayers.

 

 

Chad

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The Lowering in my experience is VASTLY improved with the GG2. I never had an issue with the GG1 but it was quite an on or off kind lower. My wife hated the old GG1 because of this. She felt she had less control with it. The new GG2 does have a 2 stage lower where the release of the rope "eases in". It's noticeable and awesome.

 

 

 

I agree. Whatever they did with the cam shape seems to have alleviated the on/off nature of the old device. Hopefully this will translate to less frequent reports of partners being dropped by panicked belayers.

 

 

Chad

 

It's actually not the cam shape but how the handle interfaces with the body of the GG2. There's a PIN on the inside of the handle that "levers" on the GG2 body moving the cam more slowly at first. There's a notch that's visible on the body. The pin is a bit harder to see.

Simple and clever.

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Which belay technique were you using, new or old? There has been a lot of discussion suggesting that the GG2 works beautifully with the new technique, but sucks using the old.

 

100% Correct. With my GG1 (proud owner since '93) I learned and used the old technique. This is where you grip the grigri palm up and hold the cam down with your thumb. I never could get used to the "new technique" where you go palm down and pinch the cam lever down with your thumb and index finger.

 

With the GG2, the cam lever profile is MUCH smaller and in a different spot. That combined with the smaller size makes the new technique much easier for me. the old technique feels quite awkward and difficult on the GG2. I've read Petzl designed it this way to encourage the new technique.

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Anyone care to chime in about the "new technique" for left handed brake hands? I have a really sweet method that was shown on a European website but not shown by Petzl (I am right handed but learned to belay with hip belays when the the dominant hand guided the rope to the climber and the weak hand was the brake hand). The metal on the new gri gri is cheaper than the old grigri. We are wearing out ropes about every 4 months at the gym and whip on the grigris every 15 minutes.

 

I have used the single pick rope shown above and think it sucks bad.

Edited by Jens
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The metal on the new gri gri is cheaper than the old grigri. We are wearing out ropes about every 4 months at the gym and whip on the grigris every 15 minutes.

 

Can you explain this a little more? Also, how do you know the metal is cheaper on the new version? I don't doubt it, just curious as to what you are seeing or have heard.

 

 

I wonder if Petzl will continue to produce the original Grigri for their tactical and industrial line?

 

 

 

Chad

 

 

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