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[TR] Cody - Classics 2/5/2011


John Frieh

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Trip: Cody - Classics

 

Date: 2/5/2011

 

Trip Report:

Trip Report Summary:

2/4: PDX -> BIL

2/5: BIL -> Cody; Cabin Fever (1p) + Wyoming Wave (4p); Too Cold To Fire (2p)

2/6: All 6 pitches of Broken Hearts + Carotid Artery (1p)

2/7: Moratorium (2p); Cody -> BIL

 

A little late on the TR but what can I say... I've been busy surfing. Good times with Zac, Michiel and Dave. All our crampons apparently dont fit because the link bar moves, at least 2 of us had down belay (or is it bivy?) jackets with removable hoods no less and I forgot my helmet... it's amazing we climbed anything at all! Our pathetic efforts in pictures :grlaf::laf: :laf: ;)

 

Cabin Fever

CI_006.JPG

 

Somewhere along Wyoming Wave

CI3.JPG

 

Too Cold To Fire

CI4.JPG

 

Broken Hearts

CI_023.JPG

 

CI1.JPG

 

Dave earning his My Only Valentine merit badge (5th pitch of BH)

CI_028.JPG

 

CI_031.JPG

 

Count the screws: Zac crusing the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts (My Only Valentine)

CI2.JPG

 

Broken Hearts 6th pitch in fat conditions: legit WI5

CI_042.JPG

 

Legit

CI_043.JPG

 

CI_048.JPG

 

The Carotid Artery: does this thing ever touch down?

CI7.JPG

 

CI_058.JPG

 

If half of it falls down that means you have half of it left to climb

CI_061.JPG

 

Dealing with roofs: Crampon Fit or Core Strength?

CI_066.JPG

 

Moratorium

CI5.JPG

 

Moratorium Second Pitch

CI6.JPG

 

CI_069.JPG

 

CI_072.JPG

 

CI_074.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Helmets work best when you dont leave them in PDX.

 

icebeer.JPG

 

Approach Notes:

alaska air

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All our crampons apparently dont fit because the link bar moves, at least 2 of us had down belay (or is it bivy?) jackets with removable hoods no less and I forgot my helmet...

 

hahah So funny.. My gear never works right and I'm too lazy/stupid to figure it out.

 

Roofs and ice climbing?! That's messed up man, roofs are for pebble wrestlers. Taking skills learned while climbing on plastic to the outdoors is cheating.

 

 

 

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thats a solid wi3 weakend...and helmets are only for people who need them and you apparently need one!

 

Zero respect. Post your address dude - I think there will be some folks that would like to pay you a visit. :poke:

 

As always - great photos John. Keep leading the way. :tup::rocken:

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