powdherb Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Trip: Mont Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix FR - Une Follie pour Umberto Maria Date: 2/8/2011 Trip Report: After much psych-uping, we decided to attack the legendary supercouloir, the huge nastiness located on the back of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Apparently, others got the memo too. Seems like every climber in Chamonix was there this morning. After an attempt on the Gervasutti pillar start, we encountered tons of nasty rock that seemed to be melted glacier/permafrost détritus. So in order to avoid getting pummeled by 4 teams of Frenchmen, we decided to try one of the other tasty lines nearby. Voila, une follie pour Umberto Maria. Several pitches of very steep ice and mixed ensued. Good climbing, but the last pitch made us chier nos frocs, so we turned around. On the right we have the super-fat supercouloir. The line we climbed is the thin upwards-right slanting gash just right of the La Faille, the second most plastered gully on the left. This was a nice wake up treat. It made sounds when we stepped on it. Seconding the first of the difficulties. Me nearing the ice crux. Tom on the same pitch. Our top out. Insane last rap. Gear Notes: 10x Gauffres Approach Notes: Schrundz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 That's awesome! TRs like this always have me checking Expedia for flights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chubler Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Absolutely awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fultonville Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Will be there in less than a couple weeks! Hopefully the locals will have gotten their Super Couloir dreams out of their heads and clear out as that's one on the tick list. Well done and thanks for the up to date pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Chamonix! 10 days, 9 hours, 56 minutes...to go Herb were you there mid week or on the weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powdherb Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 mid week. Try to stay away from anything within a 3 walk of a lift on the weekends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peakpimp Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 15 days, 15 hours, 31 minutes until my flight there! Man, totally awesome TR's like this one could keep a guy up nights in anticipation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccallboater Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 It looks like summer! Is there honestly that little snow this year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powdherb Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Brown valleys, non-existant skiing. Worst snow year ever. Yes it's true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaucho Argentino Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Awesome climb, Dudes !! For the raps, do you leave gear behind, or is there any fixed protection? Thanks for the TR, GA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powdherb Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 Honestly, there's in situ gear pretty much every 50 meters on almost every popular route in Cham. Sometimes I don't like the quality so well leave something, but rarely. We actually left a nut because we setup a belay at the wrong ledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friedrich Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Beautiful! Congrats, great climb and trip report. You aren't kidding about the psych-upping. That climb is super-intimidating! (not that I've done it, mind you. I took the normal route) Only in Chamonix would a route like that be crowded. What a place. JEALOUS!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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