klondike Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 (edited) Trip: North Cascades - Rebel Yell (Chianti Spire) Date: 7/10/2010 Trip Report: This summer, Lisa and I dined on the Wine Spires. Specifically Chianti Spire's East face (Rebel Yell). 5.10 multipitch alpine with plenty of crack climbing and even some off-width for hard men like Mark Webster. We drove up via the North Cascades Highway to a turnout just east of the hairpin turn across the valley from the Vasiliki-Wine Spires notch. From the east end of the turnout, we picked up a faint climbers trail. We hiked up, aiming for the notch to about 6,500 feet where we camped on a large flat bench covered with larch and fir. [img:center]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs097.ash2/38180_1420454707201_1107670161_31206825_2855002_n.jpg[/img] Next moring, jacked up on coffee, we continue to the notch between Vasiliki Tower and Burgundy Spire. [img:center]http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs174.snc4/38053_1419834811704_1107670161_31205239_2590422_n.jpg[/img] The notch. Changing into crampons. Getting out the ice axe for the glacier travel to reach base of route on the other side. [img:center]http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/37659_1419835131712_1107670161_31205240_4501645_n.jpg[/img] We pass one of our new routes up Vasiliki Tower, just to the right of the left skyline. Clean granite on a steep wall. [img:center]http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs166.snc4/37659_1419835171713_1107670161_31205241_6333320_n.jpg[/img] Due to the high altitude, Lisa does a quick mental status exam by counting on her fingers... [img:center]http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs086.ash2/37659_1419835211714_1107670161_31205242_4673153_n.jpg[/img] Much forshortened view of the route. [img:center]http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs066.ash2/36677_1419838611799_1107670161_31205264_6384411_n.jpg[/img] We passed another one of our first ascents. This one goes up West peak of Silver Star follows the ridgeline in the distance. 9 pitches on good rock. [img:center]http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs186.snc4/37659_1419835251715_1107670161_31205243_1235241_n.jpg[/img] Thought-provoking ascent to the base of Rebel Yell. [img:center]http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs083.ash2/37482_1419836731752_1107670161_31205258_1516062_n.jpg[/img] Lisa hangs fire while I wander up pitch 1. [img:center]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs195.snc4/38084_1419835731727_1107670161_31205244_7347375_n.jpg[/img] The pitches flew by and we forgot to take pictures. Lisa appraches the top of pitch 4 [img:center]http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs095.ash2/38084_1419835851730_1107670161_31205247_5765848_n.jpg[/img] At the headwall, Lisa led p 5, and this is midway up p 6. Arm bars were the mot de jour. This photo was actually taken on the rap down passing another party grunting through the off-width. Look at the incredible hand crack below the climber though! [img:center]http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs183.snc4/37482_1419836571748_1107670161_31205254_4164948_n.jpg[/img] Topping out [img:center]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs175.snc4/38084_1419835971733_1107670161_31205250_660043_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs163.snc4/37482_1419836531747_1107670161_31205253_7923646_n.jpg[/img] Altogether a fun outing. Not to be missed. Gear Notes: The guidebooks are spot on as far as gear goes. Double ropes make rapelling a breeze. Approach Notes: We made good use of light crampons and an ice axe in this early July junket. Edited February 7, 2011 by klondike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Looks great. Thanks for the pictures. I can't wait to get back up there this next summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wbk Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 >>We pass one of our new routes up Vasiliki Tower, just to the right of the left skyline. Clean granite on a steep wall. Can you elaborate on this new route you mentioned on Vasiliki Tower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Sweet Mr. K! I'm assuming that approach would violate my 5 minute rule? Looks like beautiful rock and exposure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klondike Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Its called the Direct South Face of Vasiliki. The other one is called the Northeast Ridge of the West Peak of Silver Star. Both are in the new Becky Guidebook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 NE Ridge Of W. Peak Silver Star Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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