benb Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 Trip: Mt Hood - Cooper Spur Date: 2/3/2011 Trip Report: I got out for some great alpine fun this week. My adventure started on Wednesday. On my way home from work, I took a right at the cooper spur junction and headed up to the Tilly Jane Trail Head. I was on the trail at 6pm looking forward to eating some dinner in the A frame. I was happy to find a fire cranking and a big pot of water on the stove. Two alpine enthusiasts were resting for their climb of the North Face Gully. I was as quiet as I could as I made some food and enjoyed the fire. With plans to bivy at Tie In Rock, I was back on the trail with a full belly at 900. I found a nice little nook to sleep in at the Rock. After a quick frozen turd scouting mission, (none were found) I crawled into bag. It was a spectacular night. As I lay in my bag, I could see the Mountain faintly lit by the stars. It looked as if Orion was standing on cooper spur with his spear raised up over the summit. Bad Ass! I slept soooooo good, I did not get out of my bad until 6:30. By 7:00, I was suited up for action and walking up the spur. Right where the spur ridge fades away into the freaking huge snice slope, I looked over and saw my new friends just entering the north face gully. It was sweet to have company. I wished them luck and climbed on up. The weather was deteriorating as I entered the first rock band. It quickly came to the point where I could not see any features up above me. I was satisfied with being able to see the route below so I continued up. At about 10,700, just below what I believe is called the chimney, I could not see up or down. My next step was down. Down climbing cooper spur is an experience. I was super pumped that as climbed down just past the rock bands, the weather cleared up below me. I was not looking forward to walking back to Tilly Jane in a white out. At almost the exact place where I saw my friends on the way up, I saw them over on the Newton Clark Glacier heading back to Tilly Jane. Once again, I was happy to have company. The wind on the ridge of the spur was INTENSE. I actually had to self arrest at one point. It was wicked. I guess it was a steady 40 with gusts to 50+. I had to walk crouched down with tools in the snow. It took forever to get past Tie In Rock where I could finally move far enough away from the ridge line to not get blasted. At 12:30 I took off my crampons for the tromp down to the A frame. I grabbed some water and hit the trial. By 3:00 I had a mug of beer in one hand and a slice of pizza in the other. Man I love Mt Hood Brewing Company! AHHHHHHHH PS I got a picture of my two friends just entering the lower NF gully. One of the guys, (from Bend) gave me his e-mail so I could send it to him. Well I lost it. So if you read this, and know two rad alpinists, at least one residing in Bend, who like to do sick NF gully to Wy East Traverses in the winter with zero weather window, please PM me so I can send it to them. Cheers Ben SOME WIND Gear Notes: I took a heavy pack with lots of stuff. Approach Notes: The trail to the Tilly Jane A-Frame would not be worth skiing right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benb Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 Note the two climbers just entering the NF gully mid frame in the 4th picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfs1978 Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 That's Dave and Ryan on the NF. I'll let 'em know you posted up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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