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[TR] Merchant Peak - South gully 2/2/2011


JasonG

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Trip: Merchant Peak - South gully

 

Date: 2/2/2011

 

Trip Report:

Man, that Jeff Smoot sure knows how to pick them! As far as a winter/spring outing, Merchant is a great scramble. It's an easy drive from Seattle, has a low elevation TH that is accessible much of the year, and a short approach. Just make sure avi conditions are stable, as you are in harms way for most of the route. You will probably have the mountain to yourself, and the views are pretty darn good, so next time the weather cooperates maybe you should check it out . . .but first buy Smoot's book, so you can start ticking them off. You'll get hooked, just ask Tim and Ben.

 

Captions are for the photo following . . .

 

Mmmmmm, a loose gully.

 

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Firm snow made for fast travel

 

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Why you should go right before the second waterfall.

 

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Baring is certainly an impressive backdrop to the day.

 

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Where's Will Gadd when you need him?

 

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Index-Persis, Sky Valley, Olypmpics

 

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Summit ridge of Merchant, a few feet shy of the cumbre.

 

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Savage!

 

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Gunn Peak. Does anyone know where the Gunslinger route is?

 

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Summit of Baring, with Chair and Kaleetan in the distance.

 

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Heading down to make it back to J R Phinickey's in Monroe for happy hour. I think it took us around 6hrs round trip (for the climb, not the pub).

 

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Gear Notes:

crampons, axe/whippet, helmet. No rope or harness needed. Jeff Smoot's "Climbing Washington's Mountains"- don't leave home without it.

 

Approach Notes:

Leave Barclay lake trail at gravel wash, past bridge over creek. Go up. Pass first waterfall in gully on left and second on right. Leave main gully ~3900', and go up semi hidden gully with large overhang at its base. When feasible, hang a left to summit.

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