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powdherb

[TR] Chamonix, FR - Voie Pellissier 1/31/2011

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Trip: Chamonix, FR - Voie Pellissier

 

Date: 1/31/2011

 

Trip Report:

Tom promised to show me some mixed climbing that everyone's talking about. My fingers got really cold. It beats 10k of icy moguls though.

 

 

Starting up the bottom pitch.

 

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Trying to figure out these sharp toolz.

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It turns out that it's quite fun. Some nice sticky ice (M5?) in the gully, finished with some 5.9 rock crux.

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Now it's getting more real.

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Beautiful alpine granite with excellent gear.

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Did I mention it was cold? It was.

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Pulling the crux on the 5th pitch.

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Gervasutti, looking dry. Jaeger (the line to the looker's right) had tracks on it from a certain mentally-ill swede.

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Freeride alpinism.

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Hauling-ass back to the train. We made it by about 2 minutes. Missing it would have meant certain death on the treacherous trail du bois.

180464_712626898080_25901513_39881321_1122034_n.jpg

Edited by powdherb

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Sweet! I'm heading there next month so thanks for the awesome stoke! As if I needed to be any more stoked at this point!!!

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GREAT TR thanks!

 

 

Voie Pellissier, Pointes Lachenal

200m, TD-/II 5a/4/M5

 

L1 - 25 m : 75°.

L2 - 50 m : 80° et un passage de 3 mètres en mixte à 85°.

L3 - 50 m : 60°, puis un passage de 3 mètres en mixte. Obliquer à droite et grimper en mixte sur 15m (1 piton en place - M4)

L4 - 30 m : grimper dans un système de fissure (5a) puis en mixte (M5) pour regagner le haut de la voie (col de neige).

 

 

 

This stuff is off limits to visiting Amerikans like Fulton and Josh :) Sorry!

 

1171352969_934013216.jpg

 

I hope Josh lives through this post after seeing the line, and Fulton lives through the lead :)

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Yes. Since it is obviously not going to snow between now and then, I predict good climbing conditions. Wanna hit some lines?

 

I climbed it again today. It was even better than the first time. Temps around -4C and clear skies. An excellent outing.

Edited by powdherb

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Bit bigger than the guide book numbers might imply :)

 

Nice job Herb!

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