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klondike

first ascent [TR] Leavenworth Midnight Rock - Running Start (New Route) 8/25/2010

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Trip: Leavenworth Midnight Rock - Running Start (New Route)

 

Date: 8/25/2010

 

Trip Report:

Melanie Estrella wanted to go to Midnight Rock in Tumwater Canyon for a loooong time and I too was taken with the idea. It perches another steep 30-minute hike above Castle Rock. Following the approach, we wander around Midnight Rock for a good half hour looking for the start of the famous ROTC. We didn't know about or find the ledge at Midnight Rock's mid-height that wraps around from the climber's left to almost the base of ROTC. So we decided to climb from the base of the crag 200 feet to ROTC. HOW HARD CAN IT BE?

 

Note the forshortening in the pic. We aimed for the left of the side-by-side roofs. They look like the closed eyes of a giant wearing heavy mascara.

 

[img:center]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs661.snc4/60144_1499923013859_1107670161_31397475_2474442_n.jpg[/img]

 

Mel gets the party started and takes a cool line up a diagonal crack system working up along a short fist to offwidth crack, onto an incredible layback flake, to another crack system to some face climbing and finally to a final layback flake to a small grassy alcove below 2 large roofs. Prolly goes at mid-5.10 with pretty good gear from micro to 4 inches. Here she is at the alcove about to balay me to God knows where. Beautiful smile.

 

 

[img:center]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs658.snc4/61816_1499921293816_1107670161_31397465_1922473_n.jpg[/img]

 

Above the alcove, seems an impasse. The wall is blank on all sides except under the roof up and right. There is a 25-foot no-feet fingertip traverse on small gear rightward, under this roof (crux). Near the end, find a no-hands rest on a vicious knee lock and shake out. With a toe hook one is then able to flip up and over the roof's right side, to reach across a blank wall to a sweeeeeet hand crack (5.9 ish) with good gear to a much easier second roof and onto a spacious ledge above. *whew!* Here Melanie tops out modeling a sexy hula skirt of bling.

 

[img:center]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs718.snc4/63822_1499921973833_1107670161_31397467_7880547_n.jpg[/img]

 

[img:center]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs718.snc4/63822_1499922013834_1107670161_31397468_6514975_n.jpg[/img]

Here, my appreciative 6th chakra is leaving my body, whatever a chakra is.

 

Sorry, no other pics of the route. Having too much fun.

Overall, first pitch 120 ft, mid 5.10 second pitch 80 ft, mid 5.11. Descent: Walk off the ledge system at top of pitch 2. Enjoy!

 

Gear Notes:

Pretty good gear. Doubles cams from micro to 3 inches. One #4 or #5 friend helpful for start. One set of stoppers.

 

Approach Notes:

Go to Castle Rock, cross Loggers Ledge and continue on a rising rightward faint trail to the base of Midnight Rock.

Edited by klondike

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FA on Midnight Rock in 2010? Is there such a thing? Hmmmm...

 

hater!

 

if there is no helmet cam video on facebook, it did not happen.

 

nice job going into the unknown and that smile is priceless. how did a old fart like you get to hook up with a sweet chicka?

Edited by genepires

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Women seem to like us older climbers. Possibly because we are older, married, and not on the prowl like you young guys. Mr. Klondike is also a really, really nice guy, and climbs harder than most of my 20 year old friends.

 

I love climbing with him because I am sometimes the beneficiary of accessory hugs from the young ladies :-) They come over to hug Mr. K, see me standing there and think: "Oh, what the hell, I'll hug this dufus too."

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Women seem to like us older climbers. Possibly because we are older, married, and not on the prowl like you young guys.

"Oh, what the hell, I'll hug this dufus too."

 

if they only knew what every old dufus was thinking.

 

Fred beckey is the king of old dufus and we all know what he is thinking about.

 

I want to hang with you guys and score a sloppy seconds hug or two.

Edited by genepires

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