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[TR] BC - Slesse, NE Ridge 9/14/2009


klondike

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Trip: BC - Slesse, NE Ridge

 

Date: 9/14/2009

 

Trip Report:

I never posted before on Cascade Climbers, so here goes: Tyler and I planned on climbing the NE buttress of Mt Slesse (gr.V, 5.9+/5.10-, left side of profile in photo). Optimal conditions (free from serac fall) for climbing it are usually two weeks around labor day. This route seems to be done by about 10 or so parties a year. Its about 3000 feet of climbing. We planned to bivvy half way up....but plans change...

[img:left]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs156.snc1/5815_1168395205871_1107670161_30621942_5454549_n.jpg[/img]

[img:left]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs136.snc1/5815_1168393965840_1107670161_30621911_7965031_n.jpg[/img]

 

The cimb is a logistical conundrum because of its difficult access. We drove to the trailhead on Thursday and grazed (on blueberries!) our way up to 4900ft near the toe of the buttress. Here a propeller cairn marks the place where a plane crashed into Slesse back in '56. We camped here, and Tyler offered me a pull of Knob Creek Whisky.

[img:left]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs136.snc1/5815_1168394045842_1107670161_30621913_3991612_n.jpg[/img]

I decided to bring a lawn chair to the summit of Slesse, which my good friends Lynn and Ed so graciously loaned me, free of charge. The novelty of carrying the thing wore off after about the first 2 hours of the approach. The novelty continued to wear off throughout technical portions of the the climb. [img:left]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs156.snc1/5815_1168394085843_1107670161_30621914_6434453_n.jpg[/img] Half way there, is a large bench, where we ate a cold lunch.

Here the weather began too look ominous, so instead of bivvying here, we climbed to the summit. Thus the quantity and quality of the photos suffered greatly. [img:left]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs156.snc1/5815_1168394645857_1107670161_30621928_4634657_n.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs136.snc1/5815_1168394765860_1107670161_30621931_2118764_n.jpg[/img]

It rained as we summitted. We descended, with an impromptu bivvy at 7000 feet atop a nice ledge with a built-in hearth of solid granite. We ate like kings. Bagels stuffed with bologne, lettuce, mustard, peanut butter, and cheese. And sandwiches of honey, jelly, and peanut butter. Washed it down with Knob Creek, since we had no more water. This made us thirstier, but at least we didn't care as much. BTW, there was a burning ban in effect throughout BC. Since there was nothing around to catch fire, we took our chances. [img:left]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs156.snc1/5815_1168394965865_1107670161_30621936_2882053_n.jpg[/img]

Next am, awaking from my space (dreamland). I used three garbage bags taped together as a bivvy sac, which kept me mostly dry. We hiked out thirstily, dropping 4000 feet of steep terrain. We arrived at the trailhead on the opposite side of the mountain range as our start. We decided Tyler would try to hitch hike to our starting point (based on his good looks, [img:left]http://[/img] he was sure to get a ride), and I would mountain bike (using a bike we cached earlier). We arrived at our vehicle (and starting point) at about the same damned time.

 

Gear Notes:

One set of cams to 3 inches, nuts and extra runners.

 

Approach Notes:

6.5 miles from Chilliwack road to the propeller cairn trailhead along Nasequatch Creek Road (unpaved, 2wd vehicle ok). We descended the opposite (Slesse Creek) side and had no problems with the Canadian military (friendly waves from their passing vehicles) along Slesse Creek Road. Slesse Creek Road is gated at its start along Chilliwack Road as of Sept 2009.

Edited by klondike
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Hey Mr. Klondike! Nice TR. Love the exposure in that self portrait, long ways down. Cool to see the lawnchair! Great seeing you on the board.

 

You should tell the story about why you brought the lawn chair. I mean, the logical, and slightly quirky thinking that made it a good idea. I loved that story.

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