rocketparrotlet Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I recently started going to the climbing gym regularly instead of just an occasional trip. This has been causing joint pain, mainly in the shoulders but in the elbows a little bit as well. I have always had trouble with chronic stress injuries running as well, not sure if this is related or not. What are some likely causes of this and best ways to fix it? I started taking glucosamine supplements yesterday, any other non-homeopathic supplements to take, or even better, something like strengthening excercises? -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 aren't you young? you should not be having joint problems yet. I think you may need to give more info for a diagnosis. How many gym visits and rests between visits? How long is the gym time? How much climbing experience do you have already? (looking for tendons to be strengthened which takes years) Does the shoulder pain occur with a specific move or all moves? Same question for elbow. What part of elbow hurts? Inside/outside/front/back/above or below elbow joint Do you think you are exercising the front (chest) or back more? (looking for muscle imbalances for shdr pain) Unfortunately the shdr is a very hard joint to figure out. It will probably come down to easing off whatever hurts, trying to do things that doesn't hurt, and work at creating muscle balance around the "injured' joint. It might be that your muscles have gotten stronger while the tendons haven't caught up. (typical for starter climbers) If this is the case, just ease off and do non painful stuff. Maybe take up snowshoeing or skiing. Supplements are meant to supplement a good diet. Junk food and supplements is no better than just junk food. Maybe you should work at training in the weight room for overall muscularity. (better for attracting chicks) Do whatever does not hurt. Be very careful with injuring/overuse of the elbow. It is a bitch to recover from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson.g Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Supplements are meant to supplement a good diet. Junk food and supplements is no better than just junk food. Dang it! There goes my training theory and explains my middle aged dad gut! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 aren't you young? you should not be having joint problems yet. I think you may need to give more info for a diagnosis. How many gym visits and rests between visits? How long is the gym time? How much climbing experience do you have already? (looking for tendons to be strengthened which takes years) Does the shoulder pain occur with a specific move or all moves? Same question for elbow. What part of elbow hurts? Inside/outside/front/back/above or below elbow joint Do you think you are exercising the front (chest) or back more? (looking for muscle imbalances for shdr pain) Unfortunately the shdr is a very hard joint to figure out. It will probably come down to easing off whatever hurts, trying to do things that doesn't hurt, and work at creating muscle balance around the "injured' joint. It might be that your muscles have gotten stronger while the tendons haven't caught up. (typical for starter climbers) If this is the case, just ease off and do non painful stuff. Maybe take up snowshoeing or skiing. Supplements are meant to supplement a good diet. Junk food and supplements is no better than just junk food. Maybe you should work at training in the weight room for overall muscularity. (better for attracting chicks) Do whatever does not hurt. Be very careful with injuring/overuse of the elbow. It is a bitch to recover from. I usually go to the gym every 2 days for about 2 hours each. Tendon issues are likely; I have only been climbing about 2 years and I built up muscle mass very rapidly during certain parts of that. Shoulder pain is just aching for maybe 15-20 minutes after I am done or a little bit of strain when I am doing dynamic moves. Elbow is barely there, just a little bit of aching after 2 hours or so. I do work out in the weight room as well. My back is stronger than my front; my chest is significantly weaker than my upper back. (I'm working on it.) I've been trying to build shoulder muscle recently, this may have something to do with it or not. I don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 try doing your chest and shdr work with a neutral grip. (meaning palms face each other) You may need to use special bars or just use dumbells. This is safer for the shoulders. Could be impingement of the nerve in the shoulder socket area. Inflamation occurs which pushes on the nerve. Are your shoulders hunched forward (driving and typing makes this worse)? You might need to pull the shdr back via strengthening the back and stretch the front. You might need a expert to give you real info. I play a doctor on the interweb but I am just a wanker in real life. Maybe hit the rock gym twice a week for 2 hrs and the weight gym 2 days a week. Maybe a schedule like (for winter time) day 1 rock gym (volume on easy ground) day 2 weight room (upper body) day 3 rest day 4 rock gym (intensity on hard routes) day 5 weight room (lower body) day 6 and 7 rest Good that your back is more developed than the mirror muscles! Don't forget the legs. at the first sign of any discomfort, stop the movement. pain is a signal worth listening to. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 try and exercise the opposite muscle group. In other words, if you spend all your time pulling and don't balance it out with pushing, something will give. I have seen many gym rats who do nothing but pull on plastic and they are always injured. Work your other muscles by being a well rounded athlete and don't ignore pains. climb lightly or not at all until the pain has gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordansahls Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 (edited) Be very very careful no matter what you do. The shoulder is the most mobile joint in the human body, which also means that it is the least stable. Be conscious of the pain/discomfort you are feeling when your arm is overhead (as in climbing). Shoulder impingement due to tendonitis and bursitis can be debilitating, and those injuries are always overuse which means they start small and slowly get worse until one day you can barely move your arm (they can and will sneak up on you). Keep on top of it, and take more rest than you think you actually need. Make sure you are lifting with proper technique. Always perform a 10-15 minute warm up before starting your climbing. Run for 10 minutes, do anything to warm up your muscles. Once you have warmed up stretch your wrists and hands (forearm flexors and extensors). Stretching after you feel pain is like placing gear after you have taken a fall, worthless. If things get worse use the RICE methode (rest, ice, compress elevate). Lastly, here is a great blog by Dave MacLeod that has a ton of information regarding climbing/tendon overuse injuries: http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/ Edited January 15, 2011 by jordansahls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Thanks everybody for the help. Your advice has been taken to heart. I'm taking a few days off and starting to feel better. -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Remember, muscles and tendons don't get stronger when you lift / climb. They get stronger when you allow them to rest and repair after you lift/climb. The rest days for that muscle group are important (doesn't mean you can't exercise, but alternate groups so you're not pounding the same muscles every day). Oh, and if you're in high school still try wrestling. Hell of a way to get mentally, physically, and cardio-vascularly strong during the winter months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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