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LaughingSquirrel

[TR] Liming, Yunnan - Multiple trad routes 1/11/2011

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Trip: Liming, Yunnan - Multiple trad routes

 

Date: 1/11/2011

 

Trip Report:

Out here in the Yunnan province of China there is alot of development going on. One of the most notable is the climbing around the town of Liming in the Laojunshan National park. This area could be the first sandstone crack climbing area in Asia. Myself, Austin Stringham, and Darryl Krovalic have been putting up many first ascents and news of the place is starting to stir the Yangshuo climbing population. The climbing here is endless and is still very much in the development stages. The coolest part about the climbing here is the the Chinese government has given us and all that come the OK to climb! Which is like history in china in terms of climbing. Below are a few pictures of the routes we have done.

 

This the third pitch of the first route in the park. Steep hands lead to more steep hands. This route is like incredible hand crack but I think you get 60 meters of hands in total :)

First_climb.JPG

 

Scarface 2 a second ptich goes beyond the steep roof above. Called GORE, also have a route called boy with a coin to the right of this one.

P1010308.JPG

 

Foe-Hammer 5.11 sandstone corner, very nice

P1010221.JPG

 

Orange Sky 5.11 Super classic

Climb_2_2_.JPG

 

This is a small example of the amount of rock we are tackling.

0671.JPG

 

Austin on the third pitch of a very nice climb, still unnamed and not finished

IMG_7495.JPG

 

Like I said, we are working on a guidebook and invite everyone to come out and climb!

 

Gear Notes:

Desert Rack, Many small to 6, doubles and triples of .75 to 4.

 

Approach Notes:

Fly to Lijiang, Yunnan and catch a bus to Liming. Email me at mdobie012@gmail.com for more beta.

Edited by LaughingSquirrel

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The season here is October to June. Was out on a new line this afternoon and it was 70 degrees. Nights are cold during the winter. Bluebird warm days in the sun though :)July to October is the monsoon season here, so climbing is spotty then.

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Hey GA, we are out in China developing the climbing scene and opening up some eyes to the idea of outdoor recreation. It is a new concept here believe it or not and we hope to assist in opening even more areas in and around Sichuan and Yunnan to the idea.

 

To live in Liming for two weeks it will cost about 700 rmb which is about 110 US dollars. And that is eating out every night and staying at a guest house.

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so liming is a little village NW of lijiang, is that right?

 

how long is the bus ride to get there?

 

i did some climbing in yunnan a while back, north of deqin going up the mekong and then turning west to the tibet border. rock was horrible!!

 

what you've found looks fantastic. lots of new stuff in china right now -- saw the reports recently of the granitic domes from xinjiang.

 

have you been in china long? do the locals in liming speak much mandarin?

 

-booth

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Liming is located directly west (and a little north) of Lijiang, Yunnan. The bus ride really depends on the driver, but it usually takes about 3 hours. The locals here speak mostly a mix of Naxi and Lisu and a few different dialects. Most everyone can speak mandarin. And I have been in China for about a year now :). Rock on!

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Thats some kick ass sandstone Austin. You guys are tearing it up out there. Im really stoked to hear about the ground breaking access you've been granted and that you've found a little or actually BIG piece of paradise for yourselves and many others. Love to see the pics man, keep them coming

-B

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Glad that this place is getting noticed. I was there in the winter of 2009/2010 but I didn't bring my trad gear...

 

Here is my facebook photo album of Tiger Leaping Gorge, the town of Liming and the sandstone cliffs.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=148476&id=648117592

I'm publishing a trip report on my blog tomorrow. I'll include this thread in the blog article.

 

Btw, I don't know whether this is the first sandstone crack climbing in China, but it's definitely not the first one in Asia. I'm from Taiwan, this place called Long Dong (Dragon Cave) is a sandstone sea-cliff place and there are 500+ routes there both trad and sport.

a blog article about Long Dong,

http://www.littlepo.com/2010/04/21/taiwan-rock-climbs-long-dong-where-the-dragon-resides/

 

and a photo album here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=13625&id=109408662428883

 

 

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