climb ideas

[mzvarner]

so im pretty new to winter climbing. I have wednesday, thursday, and maybe friday to climb. what and where would a good spot for a beginner be? I am ok with steep snow and think I can manage WI3 if i have enough screws. Hubba hubba? or similar ice around Leavenworth? Banks? NBC on Colchuck? etc

 

thanks

[genepires]

I am ok with steep snow and think I can manage WI3 if i have enough screws.

 

washington ice is so fickle that you have to be very confident with your skills to be able to get up. Being able to "manage wi3 with enough screws" says to me that you need to be climbing wi2 or easier in washington. And there ain't that much of that around. Ideally, you have to be confident at wi4 on good ice to be attempting wi3 around here.

 

so that leaves you with steep snow climbs which there is plenty of. maybe nbc of colchuck is a good choice for someone from spokane. But you have to have your avi skills in top form to be out in that neighborhood.

 

Maybe you should spend that time practicing avi awareness and rescue. or drive to banff for some good ice. You could probably get two good days of climbing from your three day window. And ten times the tool sticks than in the cascades.

[selkirk]

I was out at Banks last weekend, and while the Devils Punch Bowl and Trotsky's were in, nothing else was. That said from either side of the state it's a pretty low commitment trip with 0 avy danger. Looking at the temps and forecast, it may be a little fatter this coming weekend?

 

Hubba Hubba is also called The Funnel due to Avy danger, so check the NWAC site and conditions before you head out.

 

In general to be an Ice Climber of any sort in Wa, you need to be optimistic and have a high tolerance for marginal ice

 

I have to agree with Gene though, if you want mileage, and getting comfortable fast take a weekend in Banff, or Ouray or somewhere. You'll probably get more pitches of actual ice in 3 days either of those places then you will in a season in Wa.

 

Have fun and be safe!