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Leavenworth ice update


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yeah banks lake sorry




punchbowl was very thin at bottom, good up top. wet though. trotskys revenge was good at bottom thin and wet at top but all in all it was great. not any big scary deathcicles above either. some small stuff came down but nothing really bad.

Edited by ConorB
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yeah would not recommend hubbahuba at the moment. I climbed it on Tue (Dec 28) and ended up mixed/super thin ice at the top.


Also, update on Millenium wall conditions aren't too bad, if you're looking for ice should be even better now since we climbed it on wed (Dec 29). okay ice towards bottom, tons of snow above it 'til the tree. Just like Hubbahubba it thins out towards the top.




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Well you didn't actually think I would allow myself to not do something so exciting did you? Although I have yet to do this, I plan on it as soon as my first chance pops up. I own my own ice tools and such (as seen in the photo) and have someone who is willing to teach me how. I'm not doing pull ups and such at home for nothing. For the longest time liability was my mile stone that held me from this. Now that there is no longer any liability, now all I gotta do is figure out a way to get there and I'm set.

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Well you didn't actually think I would allow myself to not do something so exciting did you?


I would expect nothing less! heard rainbow falls and some millenium climbs are in. Should be cold next week. Pandome and also some stuff out at alpental was in a little before the last warm up, dont know now. Get after it Josh! Looking forward to pictures and an epic story like always!!!

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Up at 5am and off to find ice today around the I-90 and Leavenworth areas.


After hitting the Alpental area we found that Aplental 1-4 were all wet and somewhat non-existent. The colder weekend temperatures didn't do much here.


So we drove to Leavenworth and spotted some activity in the Icicle with the following to report:


>> Hubba Hubba - 2 parties spotted from the road, looked clean and fairly well formed


>> Rat Creek Valley - climbs were not spotted and so assumed not in


>> Dog Dome - spotted a route that looked good and fairly fat.


>> Icicle Buttress - very thin verglas and a party of 2 bailing


>> Pivotal Moment - trying but not quite there


>> Rainbow Falls - a party TR'ing the left which looked good but the right side looked wet and thinner


>> Careno - apparently quite yet - see next post


>> The Smear - formed fairly well


>> The Silver Tongue - no


The next two routes provide some confusion between the guide's description and what we were observing. Plastic Fantastic Lover (PFL) is claimed to be up and right of Comic Book Hero (CBH). PFL is described as 3 short pillars and is actually up and left of CBH. From our vantage the 3 short pillars of CBH were formed but PFL was not. Another route down and right of CBH also looked to be available. See pics.


>> Plastic Fantastic Lover - not formed


>> Comic Book Hero - potential looks good


>> Unnamed - looked ok


>> The Drip - oh I think very much so


With the light slowly fading we spotted some ice just one gully east of The Drip. We stepped out to investigate and believe we might have snagged a FA of what we are calling Nothing Really. As in 'How was ice climbing this weekend? What did you guys climb?'


**** Nothing Really, WI2+, 2 Pitches ****

Park at the Lake Jollanda Dam and walk 2/10ths of a mile east to the 1st gully east of The Drip. P1 - follow the low angled ramp of ice up to a bulge and on to a single large fir tree belay in the middle of the gully. ~110ft. P2 - ascend a ribbon of ice behind the tree to slabs and rolling steps to a final steeper 25' section of ice. Tree belay. ~110ft.


And now the goods :)



Alpental Falls (Aka Alpental 1) - the dark streaks are running water



Alpental 2-4




Careno Left & Right



Rainbow Right



Rainbow Left - climber almost topping out



Hubba Hubba - 4 climbers on route



Icicle Buttress



Dog Dome Route




The Smear



Comic Book Hero






Panoramic showing CBH in blue and Unnamed in red relative locations, PFL is up and left of CBH but not formed in this photo



Did I mention The Drip was in?



Crazy kayakers going by...



Nothing Really - P1



Nothing Really - P2



Did I mention it was a late evening :)

Edited by MrGecko
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