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telemarker

Leavenworth ice update

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mr. gecko,

the wa ice book has a number of typos. in your color-enhanced photo, comic book hero is the blue climb and plastic fantastic lover climbs the cliff a few hundred feet above and LEFT of the top of cbh. pfl looked unformed in that photo. the red climb in your photo shows up every few winters but i'm unsure if it has been climbed.

 

that route up the dike on dog dome has been climbed a few times. there is some potential for new routes to the right of it though.

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i know, i know.

 

i'll start by pointing our the poor screw placements, and the clipping of both ropes to the screws.

 

i should say though that there wasn't a z-clipped screw there, and although the rope on the left looks to be going up, it wasn't the actual case. the screws where also placed more than a foot apart.

 

in this picture the climber is next to the screw with the green screamer. there is no way i could have placed anything above to the left of it - the ice next to the rock was very thin and hollow. i did not place any rock pro.

IMG_6286.JPG

 

 

but that just sounds like an excuse. the route was hard, with variable ice, and i had to traverse to get good placements.

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i know, i know.

 

i'll start by pointing our the poor screw placements, and the clipping of both ropes to the screws.

 

i should say though that there wasn't a z-clipped screw there, and although the rope on the left looks to be going up, it wasn't the actual case. the screws where also placed more than a foot apart.

 

in this picture the climber is next to the screw with the green screamer. there is no way i could have placed anything above to the left of it - the ice next to the rock was very thin and hollow. i did not place any rock pro.

IMG_6286.JPG

 

 

but that just sounds like an excuse. the route was hard, with variable ice, and i had to traverse to get good placements.

 

 

Truly, I think it is a picture worth learning from, but good on you for persevering. Nice work. I’ve made all the same mistakes, and have certainly lead pitches where it looked like I was ascending by direct aid. Good on you, too, for having some humility; unfortunately too many climbers lack this trait (especially on this board).

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as a learning ice climber i bear no dilusions about my abilities. i did not post pictures pumping up my climbing abilities. i was on a cragging trip, practicing climbing, and trying to lead a route that was difficult for me. granted, i don't like to be made an example of, let's pretend that i'm ok with being made into a public learning aid.

 

i have many pictures of myself in bad climbing form - behind just about every climb. everyone (there were at least 3 parties at rainbow yesterday) who saw me climb can vouch that i probably bit off more than i could chew. but hey - i tried.

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Spionin on the Rainbow Left:

5342650000_13275b99e4_b.jpg

 

??! Much can be learned from this photo.

Yes, that reminds me of the party ahead of us on The Plum last afternoon.

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as a learning ice climber i bear no dilusions about my abilities. i did not post pictures pumping up my climbing abilities. i was on a cragging trip, practicing climbing, and trying to lead a route that was difficult for me. granted, i don't like to be made an example of, let's pretend that i'm ok with being made into a public learning aid.

 

i have many pictures of myself in bad climbing form - behind just about every climb. everyone (there were at least 3 parties at rainbow yesterday) who saw me climb can vouch that i probably bit off more than i could chew. but hey - i tried.

 

Keep it up. :tup:

 

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Every one is a "learning ice climber". You are out there doing it. And doing more than most I noted. Past that it doesn't matter. Anyone that gives you grief about how you are doing it is a complete noob.

 

 

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Spionin on the Rainbow Left:

5342650000_13275b99e4_b.jpg

 

Is this for real?

 

 

YES, this is for real that we went cragging, had a great and painful time climbing the shitty WI4+ in a "bad" form and now have to apologize for inadvertently posting the update on the current conditions which raised more controversy than not.

 

I am still waiting to see how many of you will have guts to have led what Veronika tried her best on and hoping that may be, just may be once in a while you will do your best to refrain from nitpicking and negativism.

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Hey, I'm impressed with Veronika's lead regardless of the rope snafu. That's a hard lead. I know I would have whimped out and hiked to the anchor on top and TRed it.

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the red climb in your photo shows up every few winters but i'm unsure if it has been climbed.

 

it was climbed today. pics to come. good stuff.

 

oh yea. we failed on this one because it was too wet. Goretex tomorrow.

drip.jpg

Edited by kurthicks

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Mitochondria100 - "I am still waiting to see how many of you will have guts to have led what Veronika tried her best on and hoping that may be, just may be once in a while you will do your best to refrain from nitpicking and negativism."

 

Word!

Way to get after y'all I say good on ya!

 

 

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Way to stick with it and look like you were enjoying yourself -your belayer was all smiles and very patient too; climbing can be so much more than just the climb itself eh?

 

(I really wasn't giving you shit when I yelled up "you're almost there!" -we all know how relieving topping out after a gripping lead can be, and I was genuinely psyched for you.)

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Hi Everyone,

I live in Leavenworth and am starting to get into ice climbing. I climbed at Rainbow Falls for the first time last week. As expected, it was cold, wet, and scary... and really really fun and a bit addictive. I am a cautious climber and would like to get started right. I am looking for a mentor or at least someone I can belay and learn from :) Im off tomorrow if anyone is around. I usually climb bearing food to share.. especially chocolate.

Thanks

Daphne

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atleast these current people are leading..who cares if they've put in 5 screws in 10 feet...they are the ones to feel the pain if doesn't work out..it makes me sad when a group of westside office workers kick down all the climbs on tr and call it a successful weakend! i wouldn't call any ice climb "in" unless you've actually led it....

Edited by bucketz

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pencil is a bit aggressive at the moment. and drury is as casual as ever.

 

Any pictures of either the pencil or the line to the left of drury?

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