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powderhound

first ascent [TR] Strobach - FA: The Responsible Ladies Man WI5 12/5/2010

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Trip: Strobach - FA: The Responsible Ladies Man WI5

 

Date: 12/5/2010

 

Trip Report:

Left PDX at 9pm and headed to strobach friday night with skander, found FS rd 1202 beat down by plenty of hunters and other wander's, so I risked it and drove the jetta wagon up the road. Parked at the 2nd meadow and slept for a couple hours. used slow shoes to approach, but didnt sink too much, only about 14in's of snow. came to the motherlode to find things thin but still forming.

 

drop_therough_power.jpg

 

dropline through tower of power

 

the routes lookers left of dropline until separation gully were in but thin...so I guess in is subjective to some.

 

I had never been over to primus suckus so I walked that way. first on the left looked the most in of any of the routes. unholy baptism's first pitch was a cool looking thin sheet of ice.

 

we climbed this: which is am pretty sure is a FA. now maybe known as "the responsible ladies man"

 

ladies_man.jpg

 

P1: Ascend body length pillar starting in lower left corner of picture to smear in corner to the ledge WI3+ M4 30M, stubbies, BD #3 pecker, #3 & #.75 BD camalot for pro. could place more in crack left of smear. Walk on ledge sixty feet to second pitch. Good yellow alien and #1 pecker for anchor just right of 2nd pitch ice.

 

Pitch 2: 46M WI5

upper_pitch.jpg

 

 

I recommend not toping out.

 

 

Having Fun:)

having_fun.jpg

 

 

back in portland by 10pm for a date

 

 

Gear Notes:

slow shoes, compass, whiskey, herb like fruit, next time bring more than nine screws.

 

Approach Notes:

Look in the guide

Edited by powderhound

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:rawk:

 

you still sporting hte 'stache or did that have to go for the ice n' the ladies? :)

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Congratulations! To my knowledge this is indeed an FA, as the one party who had attempted it previously - on their first exploratory adventure to Strobach - made it halfway up before they bailed due to daylight.

 

Looks great, looks harder than the typical shape I've seen it in, so good work getting after it in thinner early season shape!

 

Very aptly named :)

 

For those of you not as familiar with the area, this is perhaps the most "formed" I've seen this area this early in the season in a very long time. Bodes well for a strong ice season up there!

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Glad you found a partner and got out. Things sure are shaping up nicely from when I was up there 2.5 weeks ago!

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whoa! way to start the season ...in full sprint!

 

.

yeah, i hate rope-guns too...or did you mean somethign else? :grin:

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Just did the 2nd ascent of this quality route. Very fun. Good job Bryan!

Maybe I am gettin old but WI5?

 

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Just did the 2nd ascent of this quality route. Very fun. Good job Bryan!

Maybe I am gettin old but WI5?

 

Must be getting old:) Nice work, did you use flotation to get in there?

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Wait so is it hard or easy for WI5? I'd like to give it a whack someday, but if its hard for the grade I think I might have someone else lead it ;)

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I think Wayne was trying to say WI5 might be too lenient a rating for this route.

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40m of unrelenting vertical, 2 foot rests. caught it in thinnish shape.

stro21.jpg

 

stro31.jpg

 

stro.jpg

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WI5.4

 

Thanks, that doesn't help much though! I'm not as good of an ice climber as you are, I imagine, so I can't just jump on any old WI5. But if its easy for the grade or not a total sandbag, I might feel more comfortable getting on such an unpublished route. Oh well probably out of my league anyways.

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So I don't want to intrude on anyone's sacred ice climbing territory, but anyone looked at Strobach for summer rock potential? I've hiked that cliff line a couple of times over the years, most recently probably 10 years ago, and always thought it looked...interesting, but I've always been focused elsewhere in the Tieton. There are dirty swaths where the winter ice forms, but there's also lots of clean rock, and the striking arete to the right of TRLM has always stuck in my mind.

 

Just wondering.

 

Andy

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Could be something Yoder would exploit. Ask him on fbook. I saw some decent rock, we need a gondola up there. The mixed potential is out of this state type good. Washington's Hyalite.

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