Jump to content

Oregon Climbing History


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

FA of Old Man Rock - Dilleys Delight on the N. Umpqua. A message I got from Gary after I posted my TR of the climb this year, which I really appreciated:


I was a member of the first attempt and first ascent - We got to the "Cave" on the attempt, but without bolts, could go no higher - Cams and Friends did not exist then 1n 1959, and also sticky shoes - We climbed in regular climbing boots - I led first pitch, and it was basic find the easiest way, holding the holds in place as I went up - Then Fergy did the next to the "Cave" and that was it for us, so we went and did a first on the Old Woman which I led - In 1963 I came back, though I was late in joining the party as I had to work, but I did join the group on top - Bolts were used as thats what was availible - On the rap off, the rope got stuck at the edge, and it was scary as two of us in the "Cave" trying to get the darn thing to let go - It took about 30 minutes of panic pulling and flipping - I was interested to know there is now a climbers trail to Old Man - We had to bushwack through poison oak which is not fun afterwards - Have been back a few times to repeat the climb, and its always a blast - Gary Kirk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My first taste of Oregon Climbing History was with this gentleman:



From: http://www.johannsonline.com/a/heritage.html


Ed Johann & his family had a little climbing shop at the Rhododendron House in SW Portland. He and his son-in-law Gary Craghead ran a guiding service, Johann Mountain Guides.



From: http://www.oregonphotos.com/Oregon-Gear-Companies1.html


I was in 9th grade, must have been '78 or so, and was able to talk them & my parents into letting me tag along. After a basic snow travel course, we went up St. Helens (back when she had a top and an awesome glissade) and Hood. At the time it was like 25 bucks! - life was cheap back then.


Real nice people and the best introduction to the sport that anyone could have. There's not much else on the web about them. Curious to hear if any of you ran across these guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know much about Oregon climbing history, but I can definitely recommend a visit to the Mazama Archives in Portland. They have done a great job of collecting artifacts, photos, personal papers, and books. Jeff Thomas is the key guy to talk to. You can probably reach him through the Mazamas office.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh, and I do know of someone with an original Mountain Club pennant flag.


I have one of the last Mountain Club patches. Used to have it on a hat for many years. Finally, stopped wearing the hat cause it was in poor shape and I did not want to lose the patch.


While at OSU we did a bit of digging and clean up and I think the OSU Mountain Club archives made their way over to the Kerr Library. That was back in the mid 80s.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...


As I understand it, Rick Brittsan was a Yosemite climber who settled into Roseburg in the 80s after he was diagnosed with cancer. He saw potential at the Callahans and before he passed away he and Harold Hall establish several first ascents and a vision.


Here is another one from Old Man. The first Tyrolean between Old Man and Old Woman, August 1980.


Edited by g orton
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...