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jmace

[TR] - Dolomites July 2010

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Trip: Dolomites

Date: 07/20/2010

 

Trip Report:

This is part 2 of my climbing trip to the Dolomites

 

part 1 is HERE

 

pics are clickable

 

After leaving the Tre Cime I easily found the bus that would take me to Trento. I figured all I needed was one night but after a shower and a night in an air conditioned hotel I realized I was much more tired than I thought. I had some blisters, some of my gear was breaking down and I was just generally tired, I had been climbing for 2 weeks. So the two nights I had to refresh were well worth it.

 

As expected,after missing a summer trip last year Toby showed up rarin to go. Fully stocked up including multiple bottles of whiskey we quickly made tracks for the Brenta range.

 

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We figure we should get him warmed up so we choose the friendly V 12 pitch South face Via Keine

 

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The summit as usual has a statue of Mary

 

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The next day we decide to check out the Campanille Basso. The route takes the obvious groove to the shoulder below the summit right at the pointy rock.

 

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The climbing was superb and Toby was finding his groove.

 

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On the advice of some Italians we decided to forgoe the summit in favour of getting on the descent route first. The raps are steep and its the same descent for all routes so it can get busy at the end of the day.

 

Toby on rap 4 of 9.

 

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Then after some discussion we decided to move camp to Rifugio Pedrotti. Pedrotti and Tossa can be seen in the distance; bottom left and upper right.

 

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The weather was crap but we decided to take advantage of a sucker hole and run up Cima Marguerita, unfortunately it was a small window and we were forced off at the halfway point.

 

good times while it was good though!

 

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After that we went back to the hut and planned for the big route. Route finding in the dolomites is trying at the best of times,therefore I generally like to stick to the ridges. So I have no idea how we decided that a route that is labelled "very difficult route finding" made it on to the list. There ended up being three traverses across this big intimidating face, put up in 1934 by the famous Bruno Detasis, VI- 21 pitches

 

The NE face in early morning light, what a route! The route starts just left of the snow patch at the base on the far right.

 

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The face was steeep!!

 

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Route finding was very difficult and for sure added to the stress of an already intimidating route, always second geussing your place on the face. Then when the clouds and rain moved in we just wanted it to be over, somehow there is always one more pitch. At the top we were frazzled, but we still had some daylight for the descent. We missed dinner so instead we sucked on power gels as we fell asleep in our bunks.

 

The summit frazzle

 

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The next day all we wanted was food and more food, if you have been to Italy you know breakfast is not one of their strong points. So after some bread with jam we were off to find pizza and beer in the city.

 

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Next stop was to go back to the Pala range, I wanted to do a Buhl route and Toby wanted on the 20 pitch Gran Pilaster.

 

The Gran Pilaster takes the sky line to the right on the biggest peak, just left of the snow patch on the right is the start.

 

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Interestingly the route in the lower half is mainly in chimneys, Toby gets ready to enter while some dudes who ended up being kinda weird are already situated in the chimney above.

 

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The trick to be able to stay on route is to make sure both climbers have photocopies of the route. As we left the chimneys we emerged onto the face, I stopped to see where we were and how far we had to go..

 

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The route itself was easy and enjoyable, the descent was another story. We actually had to descend the serrated ridge to the right, 5 of those towers had to be turned and each one was taking time. I really had no desire to repeat my gel for dinner adventure again.

 

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The plan originally was to head back get some rest and head for the Buhl route the following day, the night prior the hut warden mentioned we had not made a reservation for a busy Saturday night. Not to worry though, I belong to the CAI and they must provide me with emergency accomodation. Toby and I talked about what that may be: the generator room, the food shed, possibly the beautiful handmaidens quarters...

 

Well I suppose it could always be worse, although at the time I was at a loss for what that might be.

 

Our mats in front of the bathrooms on a busy sat night, we did not climb the next day...

 

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Oh man the Buhl route looked so good, and now with the weather forecast to crap out the next day we were pretty bummed.

 

The Buhl on the Cima Canali, takes the line just right of the obvious water streak in the centre of the photo

mmm goodness!!

 

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As a consolation prize, we decided to head up another Detasis line, this time on the Cima Wilma.

 

The route takes the yellow pillar in front and then descends the major left to right ramp on the face.

 

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The route was a great way to end the trip, highly enjoyable!

 

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I have dropped nuts and a cam before and felt pretty bummed, I bet this guy felt alot worse at dropping these.

 

I found these near the base

 

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After that it was just one more crappy breakfast, how these guys climb these routes on this just blows my mind. I think I have this Dolomite thing figured out, but I have not cracked the breakfast thing. Pop tarts only last so long...

 

Nutella, three packets of jam, maybe some schinken creme if your lucky

 

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Toby and I managed 80 pitches, which made a total of 153 pitches and ten peaks for my 2010 Dolomite tour. A very grand adventure!!

 

Slide show of all photos are here

 

Slideshow

 

Individual pics here

 

Individual

 

Then just like that I was in Turkey fishing for Dorado on my girlfriends dads boat.

 

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If your interested the slideshow is here

 

Slideshow

 

Pics here

 

Pics

 

After that it was time to head back to the mountains, this time my long time friend Dom and I decided to ride motorbikes across the alps. We started at his place in Barcelona ripped across France until Albertville where we headed into the Alps. After that it was 10 days and 3500 km of AMAZING alpine riding until we reached the end of the Alps in Slovenia. A small ride through Tuscany to the coast then an overnight ferry back to Barcelona wrapped up the tour.

 

I wont write TR since it motorbiking, but here are few pics. We managed to camp most of the way.

 

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Slideshow here

 

Slideshow

 

Pics here

 

Pics

 

Then some cragging in Spain and I went home two months after I left, now what to do next summer...

 

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Thanks for posting this. I've always wanted to check out the Dolomites ... this will be excellent day dreaming material.

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Matt

 

I joined Club Alpino Italiano (CAI) for 50 euros for 1 year, covers my mountain rescue via heli 100% and makes the hut 10 euros a night.

 

Wine is 5 euros for a half litre and dinner is about 10 euros.

 

Very very affordable, I am pretty much in love with the Dolomites!

 

FGW and MVS who post here also have very good info as well.

 

I made sure to ride my bike through Arco, and wow that place has it all, big walls, beautiful lake, awesome city and the women...

 

Arco walls

 

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Garda Lake

 

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I did really enjoy checking out the Julian Alps in Slovenia, that place was very affordable...worthy of a trip for sure!

 

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