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Jens

Alpental Conditions Update

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I was surprised to find far less ice than I would have thought. Mostly just pencil thin stuff over rock. Lots of new snow. If you are going up the Alpental Valley at all (even on the trail) bring floatation. Lots of new snow.

 

The trip Ended with shopping at the North Bend outlet Mall and then the gym.

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This weekend should be better, but it's still early. If I was in WA this weekend I would head back to Rap Wall. We had a blast climbing there on Sunday.

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Alpental 1 (or 4) depending on who you talk to - the first long slab with the short steep topout finish is in. Weekendclimber and I climbed it today as did several other parties. A donkey trail is now in.

------------------------------------------

If you find a Quark ice tool, I lost one in an avalanche that carried me a ways near the route early this morning. We couldn't find it in about 1-2 hours of digging.

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I was with the party after JENS, sorry to say we did not stumble upon your tool, and the description of being "IN" is totally subjective, climbable yes, protectable... barely, especially after four of us ran laps on it and destroyed most of the slush which made up the bottom 3/4.

On sunday, The Fitz, reported that the chockstone was "IN" (under the same context described above), though a wallow to get to it, several sluff slides from time to time, threatened their gear as well, nothing lost.

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I climbed that thing one November with mikeadam belaying, and only got a half-driven knifeblade halfway up to the top. I think the climb must have fallen down like an hour later. Good times! :)

 

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Skied around Chair Pk yesterday and took a few pics that might be of interest. First pic is the W side of Chair from the Melakwa lakes basin. Second is the other side of the same basin. Last pic is Flow Reversal above Source Lake. Chockstone Falls looked in as well.around_Chair_Pk_dec_10_027.jpgaround_Chair_Pk_dec_10_025.jpgaround_Chair_Pk_dec_10_002.jpg

Edited by bigeo

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Was also up in the area on Saturday. We were the only morons wandering around without flotation. Saw some good sign. We went up to check out this section. Looked better than most! Wasn't long by any means. Never got higher than my axe as the trees above us starting raining snow on us pretty regularly. Then we realized we had one helmet between us. Another day.

 

And next time we'll bring snowshoes.

 

IMG_4855.JPGIMG_4859.JPG

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Another of the Saturday visitors...a beautiful day to be in the mountains! Lots of powder...floatation a good plan. I mainly wanted to see how Chair Peak was looking. I'm thinking a few more melt/freeze cycles and things will be shaping up nicely.IMG_0158.JPGIMG_0194_2_.JPG

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Nice pics all. Looks like a great day out! Xhen, that first pic with you approaching is looking directly at "Kiddie Cliff", looking not worth it in it's current shape.

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Nice pics all. Looks like a great day out! Xhen, that first pic with you approaching is looking directly at "Kiddie Cliff", looking not worth it in it's current shape.

 

The second pick is a close up of the first, once we got up there. Glad it's familiar to someone :)

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I'd wait a month or two. As of last weekend it looked like there was some thin ice higher up, but you would have to surmount some difficult to protect looking rime coated rock bands to to get to it.

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Wondering about Ice conditions at Alpental and 11worth. The weather looks like there may have been a lot of melting this week. Don't wanna waste gas driving up from Eugene this weekend if shit isn't in. Thanks!

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Not sure about the conditions, but temps look better for the Alpental area. However, given that just about everyone from Washington is heading mcuh farther east I’d suspect it’s still a bit out. I’m with you though.... I’m going to climb the bell tower if I don’t get out of Eugene soon :)

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