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Best Pitches In The PNW


TimL

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Single pitches

E. Face Snibble Tower, 5th pitch. 5.9, Smith

- great thin crack in a wonderful position, made a little better by the crud you've got to do to get to it

Dishonourable Discharge, 10b, Leavenworth

- pretty hard for being so damn short!

Split Pillar, right side, 10b, Squamish

- not the hardest crack I've lead, but definately the best

Thin Fingers, 11a, Index

- obviously. Pretty easy once past the start

Kite Flying Blind, 11c, Index

- haven't gotten clean yet, but still a beautiful, difficult crux

G-M to Heart of the Country, 10a, Index

- really good handcrack

Exasperator full, 10c, Squamish

- even better after a couple of beers

Multi

Grand Wall, 11a, Squamish

Snake, 5.9, Squamish

Davis-Holland/Lovin' Arms, 11b, Index

Outer Space, 5.9, Leavenworth

Alpine

Burgundy Spire, N. Face, 5.8

- sunrise at the bivi can't be beat

South Early Winter Spire, Direct E. Buttress, 5.9 A1

- easier than I thought it'd be, but still fun

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four sheets to the wind - New River

last two pitches of outer space

alcoa presents - Seneca

tropicana -exit 38

pleasant overhangs - Seneca

soler - devils tower

paul maul - tieton

sinsemelia - Vantage

west variation of monkeys face - Smith

These are a few of my favorites.

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four sheets to the wind - New River

last two pitches of outer space

alcoa presents - Seneca

tropicana -exit 38

pleasant overhangs - Seneca

soler - devils tower

paul maul - tieton

sinsemelia - Vantage

west variation of monkeys face - Smith

These are a few of my favorites. even if not all in the PNW sorry about twice!

[This message has been edited by kyagpa! (edited 08-16-2001).]

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single pitch trad - Picies (sp) - Index, all you need is three peices of pro...a #1 camalot, #2 camalot, and a #3.5...ahhhh

multi pitch rock route - outer space!

alipne rock route - the last pitch on the south face of Prusik

The second pitch above the detatched pillar on Serpentine Ridge. the most beutiful 5.8 coner!

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Uh, Texplorer, the question was "What are your favorite Pitches in the PNW". A favorite can only be at the crags you have climbed at. So here are my biases (I'm from the east side of the state and Im Marty, not FAt Kid. He just uses my computer).

Smith: Toxic, Darkness at noon, Spank The Monkey

Vantage: That M&M's route that keeps getting bolted then chopped, Boschido, The routes around the Powerhouse that I can't remember the names

Minnehaha: Dihedral, Hooker, Hot Licks

Deep Creek: Motley Crux, Quiver, Opiate for the People

China Bend: Blue Chunks, Pork Sausage, Shut out

Marcus: Natural Born Puller, Sport of Spew, The Blow of Choss

Metaline FAlls: Gunshow, Conan the Barbarian, 12GA. Pump

Riggins: So Thin So Fat, Tractor Boy, Brother Speed

Dishman: Slave Labor, Rock 106, The Dull Sickle

Post FAlls: Death Fall, Death Match 2000, Fantastic upside Down Flake

Laclede: Poster Child, Yeild Curve, Chicken Mc Nubbins

Chimney: Canary Legs (only route Ive done there)

Banks Lake: Red Rocket, Allergic Reaction, Short Circut

Little Si: Rainy day women was nice but haven't been there much.

Rocks of Sharon: Chronic Rookie, Super Fly, Massive attack

Spring MOuntain: Can't remember the names but all the easier routes up to 12a were good. I'd recommend a weekend to anyone looking for a good moderate sport Crag

Skaha: Not Fade Away, Fire wire, Wings of Desire

Granite Point: Psychosynthesis, Pendulum, Killer

My 2cents concerning PNW pitches. Spokane is part of the PNW isn't it?

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Good point Marty,

Looks like you have done some sick routes. I'm not quite as experienced and am limited to mainly Oregon as far as climbing but here's my fav's so far.

Sport -Vomit Launch - Smith

Trad -Moonshine Dihedral - Smith

Alpine Rock -N Ridge - Stuart

Alpine climb -Jefferson Park Glacier - Jefferson

 

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Cool. I just tripped across a great discovery then. piss + chalk = super grip. I can just see it now. People climbing with their chalk bag with their Metolius Piss Jar attached! LOL

Dru, have'nt been up to Squamish in 4 years or so and I forgot how beautiful the scenery (both types) is and how nice the people are. Canadians rock..eh?

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  • 2 years later...
With so much good climbing and so little time, I wanted to hear what people think are some best pitches in the PNW. The type of pitches that makes one think "This is why I climb".

 

 

If the number of times I've done it is an indication, then Sunblessed at Squamish must be good, because it sure ain't as convenient as Exasperator. The first 2 pitches are great. At least 3 of 4 finishes are good. It isn't why I climb but it is why I like to climb.

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Some climbs that I remember being really fun:

 

* The top pitch of Spiderman(smidd).

 

* The pitch on Calculus Crack above the belay-ledge. Very airy with some faddy hand jams. (Squamish)

 

* Thin Fingers (Index)

 

* Iguanarama (For that stellar climbing at E38)

 

* Reptiles and Amphetamines (For more stellar climbing at E32)

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Outer Space crack

Sky Ridge at Smiff. Hand traverse on the 2nd pitch.

Penalty Box at CalCheak

waterline traverse at secret West Van spot - may be bouldering but a pitch or two long!

Overlap pitch on Sisyphus at Marble Canyon

Double Exposure at Skaha

If I had to pick one, just one, pitch to represent the whole of Squamish it would probably be the roof traverse at Squamish. It has everything that makes Squamish squamish including slab, pin scars, bomber jams, tree move, and sometime wetness. However I think the crux pitch on Rock On is better, just unrepresentative. Angel Crack is pretty good too.

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