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[TR] Beartooths - Ice Dragons 11/6/2010


duckfeet

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Trip: Beartooths - Ice Dragons

 

Date: 11/6/2010

 

Trip Report:

We left Missoula late Friday night and pulled in the trailhead just after 2am. Sorted the gear, got in bed by 3, and up at 5. We took just at 4 hours to do the approach and found the first 2 pitches not to be in. No problem, we'll go up the easy looking corner to a chimney. It turned out to be in the M5R range. Still, great rock and fun climbing. Besides, 2 pitches of rock got us to the ICE. And such great ice it was. Fat and totally plastic for 500ft up to WI3+. 3 long pitches later with increasing spin drift (we were getting hammered) and decreasing light, we had 2 more rock/moss pitches up to M5 again (guidebook claims easy rock, but we found a more fun way) and a steep snow pitch put us on top about 730. Did I mention the spin drift? Well it came from the plateau where it was blowing a steady 50mph and much harder on the gusts. Oh, it was dark too. And we got lost by heading down the wrong descent gully. And we spent the next 10 hours temporarily not knowing where we were. Its okay though. If we follow water down hill it'll eventually take us to the right drainage. A few raps, lots of talus, a river crossing, and finally the trail. We made it back to the car after 30hrs. Pretty good day out!

 

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Gear Notes:

Screws, rock gear .5-3 and full set of nuts

 

Approach Notes:

Easy, its getting down you gotta watch out for

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The plateau was certainly one of the more "entertaining" spots I've been recently. The route is really good and I'd recommend it, even if you're coming from WA or OR. Don't let our time fool you. If you don't botch the descent, we would have been back at the car in under 15hrs.

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