Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] Beartooths - Ice Dragons 11/6/2010

Recommended Posts

Trip: Beartooths - Ice Dragons


Date: 11/6/2010


Trip Report:

We left Missoula late Friday night and pulled in the trailhead just after 2am. Sorted the gear, got in bed by 3, and up at 5. We took just at 4 hours to do the approach and found the first 2 pitches not to be in. No problem, we'll go up the easy looking corner to a chimney. It turned out to be in the M5R range. Still, great rock and fun climbing. Besides, 2 pitches of rock got us to the ICE. And such great ice it was. Fat and totally plastic for 500ft up to WI3+. 3 long pitches later with increasing spin drift (we were getting hammered) and decreasing light, we had 2 more rock/moss pitches up to M5 again (guidebook claims easy rock, but we found a more fun way) and a steep snow pitch put us on top about 730. Did I mention the spin drift? Well it came from the plateau where it was blowing a steady 50mph and much harder on the gusts. Oh, it was dark too. And we got lost by heading down the wrong descent gully. And we spent the next 10 hours temporarily not knowing where we were. Its okay though. If we follow water down hill it'll eventually take us to the right drainage. A few raps, lots of talus, a river crossing, and finally the trail. We made it back to the car after 30hrs. Pretty good day out!











Gear Notes:

Screws, rock gear .5-3 and full set of nuts


Approach Notes:

Easy, its getting down you gotta watch out for

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice job guys! It looked great last week from the valley, psyched you got on it.


Those plateau's are horrible in a white-out, aye? Glad you made it back safe and sound.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The plateau was certainly one of the more "entertaining" spots I've been recently. The route is really good and I'd recommend it, even if you're coming from WA or OR. Don't let our time fool you. If you don't botch the descent, we would have been back at the car in under 15hrs.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

There was little ice on Cali. What ice there was, was thin and discontinuous. There is very little snow in the front end of the canyon and the temps had been fairly warm, even up high.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this