billcoe Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 For Raindog, 5.10 5.4 trad is at his limit, for others this is not. They are trying to climb their best and thus ensues sport crags. Stay with your classic trad lines(long approaches) and away from sport crags! Fixed that. It's when the sportos run over to locations and inappropriately start drilling in places that they are not wanted which is the truly the issue. Raindawg just generally lets his mouth always runs off like so much diarrhea when he sees the word "bolt" which riles everyone. Realistically, we are all fairly close to being on the same page. with that in mind and for Don- bolting clinic humor, Plaidman "strokin' the Dawg" (ie drilling the anchor for Child Abuse, 100 percent gear route): What the happy trad climber (id protected:-) does on a 300'+ high cliff when there is no cracks within 20 miles: For Don with luv, his namesake, the lil dawg: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raindawg Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 So for me too push myself and accomplish the hardest moves possible on a rope, the placement of bolts is a necessity. They allow for the 'blank' faces to be climbed. This is the natural progression of the sport. For Raindog, 5.10 trad might be your limit, for others this is not. They are trying to climb their best and thus ensues sport crags. Stay with your classic trad lines(long approaches) and away from sport crags! Push yourself and accomplish the hardest moves possible on a rope...a top-rope. It's less intrusive than a line of bolts and you can climb plenty of "blank faces" safely. That will be the natural progression of the sport when folks start realizing that they can't drill a mess anywhere they choose. Stay with your classic trad lines(long approaches) and away from sport crags! Now THAT is funny! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Push yourself and accomplish the hardest moves possible on a rope...a top-rope. It's less intrusive than a line of bolts and you can climb plenty of "blank faces" safely. Fall off on TR, hit the ground? What then? Oh wait, I know... bolts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jibby Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 TR is for pussies and I totally agree bolting a perfectly protectable crack is for pussies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 with as much slack as that belay betty's got out, i bet he'd still hit the ground! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boadman Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 If you don't like TRing, then you don't like climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 TR is for pussies and I totally agree bolting a perfectly protectable crack is for pussies. Ahem. Ahem. For those not in the know, this is The Bolted Flake at the quarry in Tenino. This route is no longer there as the big flake Jibby is liebacking up fell off a couple years ago, landing right where I always told people not to stand and belay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jibby Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 AND I then LEAD the route on BOLTS. And Off, it was a good climb, I loved the solpey finish and powerful moves. First lead here as well, those photos are close to 5 years old now too. Psyched to continue to clean more lines, there's a 5.8 somewhere... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 AND I then LEAD the route on BOLTS. And Off, it was a good climb, I loved the solpey finish and powerful moves. First lead here as well, those photos are close to 5 years old now too. Psyched to continue to clean more lines, there's a 5.8 somewhere... Well that flake was 5.8 - for a good 20 feet or so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jibby Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 I know, and with relatively speaking, close bolts. Top was still 5.11 though. It's gonna be a long winter.., Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 The entry bouldering moves were fun and elegant too, I really miss that route. Maybe we'll do the work the get the replacement route in service this year, though its unfortunately (for me anyway) several letter grades harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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