Glove systems

[mzvarner]

I am trying to nail down a good system, here are my theories. I am trying to get a system that works nicely for both a weekend in Hylite or Lake Lousie and climbs like Chair peak, Mt. Stuart, Kautz, etc. Pretty much anything in the cascades. I have noticed that my hads DO get cold easily and can be hard to warm up as well.

 

#1- I use two ice gloves (I have the MH Hydra and am considering the BD Punisher or OR extravert). I would climb to the belays with the opposite set in my jacket so they would be warm and dry. I would also carry a big warm glove or mitten for camp like the BD mercury.

 

#2- I use an "ascent" style glove (BD glisade or OR Arete i think the arete would be beter, the inner liner is removable there fore i can use the glove in a few different ways and carry only an extra liner to swap out)

 

Am i getting closer to a good idea? what works for you guys?

[spionin]

i carry a generic light softshell glove (leading) and a medium-weight glove. but i also carry a super lightweight mitten that's waterproof, which i can put over either. that's the money piece for me.

 

the mitten is for belaying and for climbing less-than-vertical slopes that involve dipping my hands in the snow. acts as an insulator, wind- and waterproofer.

[Skatan]

Ice routes I use punsher or thinner spring park snowboard gloves climbing & bd ice gloves belay if cold and or wet. For lib ridge and the likes thin spring park most of the go and ice gloves if cold. Winter alpine more just punisher and maybe ice gloves if cold. Alternate only if really wet otherwise just put single pair of thinner gloves in coat while belaying with ice gloves. I have tried the mechanics glove and work type found thin snowboard gloves suit me better. Check out Dakine, EMS or Rome after season on sale. I have a pair of mitts that I have never used but I have warm hands I guess. Either way the thinner the glove I can get by with the better.

Edited October 27, 2010 by Skatan

[summitchaserCJB]

Dude there are so many theories on this one. Do what works for you. In the past I've used mittens as backup but have gotten away from that. But I definitely have some backup. I've started leaning towards a finger glove like the punisher with a thin liner that I can wear under the glove. This works well for anything of short duration and moderate cold.

[Dane]

Zach you are looking to cover a lot of teritory there.

 

I use a liner, BD's heavy weight most every where till I have to use a warmer or more durable glove.

 

Then I will use a lwt techncial glove of some sort. MTN Hardware currently, the Torsion..works, is very durable, easy to dry while you climb in them and they are cheap in the grand scale of things. Lots of options here from $6. on up to the $100 Mtn Hardware Pistolero.

 

Then the Hydra weight with a long cuff for something warmer that I can still climb well in.

 

Past that mittens or a REI lined Switch Back for more warmth. Climbing leashless you can generally go much colder with less glove. You'll be surprised. Thin gloves also allow you to hold on to your tools using less effort.

 

I like gloves that will dry next to your body with body heat while you climb, that are breathable and if possible water resistant or beter yet water proof if they breath well.

 

I also want real leather palms. Hard to place screws with a rubber palm as they are too sticky.

 

I seldom change gloves these days during a full day of climbing. My gloves are more expensive now but they work better as well for the additional price. Beats going through 3 or 4 pair of gloves on one climb and still having cold. wet hands at the end of the day. But I will generally carry a spare pair of what ever I am climbing in and something warmer. So two spares. One spare (the warmer ones) if I am watching the weight.

 

Four gloves weights . Easy to find something that will work in each catagory and in a price range that is comfortable for you.

 

liner

tech glove

moderate warmth...mtn glove

belay gloves

[wdietsch]

I also want real leather palms. Hard to place screws with a rubber palm as they are too sticky.

 

what he said, you'd be surprised what a nuisance this can be

[mzvarner]

Cool!Thats a lot of beta. I guess i was beign very optimistic when i said i want a system to cover ALL that terrain. But any ways, lots of advice. Thanks