Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
finian

[TR] Tieton, WA - Ride the Lightning 10/18/2010

Recommended Posts

Trip: Tieton, WA - Ride the Lightning

 

Date: 10/18/2010

 

Trip Report:

I finally got down to Tieton a couple weeks ago. We decided to go straight to Goose Egg to get a longer climb in rather than cragging on the columns.

 

From the ground the wall looks really cool, and the approach was great. The first two pitches were pretty good (loved the second pitch corner), but the third pitch was really nothing more than moving the belay up a dirty scramble.

 

Then the next two were a choss fest of loose holds. Don't get me wrong, if the rock had been solid there were some really cool moves. The higher we went the worse it got. When we topped out I just about crapped myself. The entire top of the wall is covered with loose rock plates about 16" to 24" just waiting to get sent down on climbers with the first strong breeze. Doing that last pitch it was nearly impossible to keep from launching this crap down on my partner. There is literally NOTHING solid on the last pitch!

 

I wouldn't recommend this route. The quality of the climb doesn't justify the risk you are taking under that scree field at the top. I know I'm going to take a ton of flak for dissing someone else's route but I really wish someone had let me in on the risk before I went up it.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
...but I really wish someone had let me in on the risk before I went up it.

I thought that the guidebook was pretty clear about it. Mentions looseness in the general description, shows looseness on the topo, and tells you that it's an alpine (read: possible/likely looseness) climb in the write-up. YMMV.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sure, but I guess in my mind there is a difference between "looseness" and let's go chop my partner's head off with a rock guillotine ;-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sure, but I guess in my mind there is a difference between "looseness" and let's go chop my partner's head off with a rock guillotine ;-)
I think you'll just have to get used to it, or don't climb there anymore.

Be thankful you didn't head over to Kloochman's Rock... now that's what I call looseness! :laf:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I give you props for telling it like it is. Too often TRs gloss over how awful the rock can be out there. Lose rock doesn't make a route all bad, there are some folks out there that love that sort of thing. However it is always nice to be honest when writing a TR so others know what to expect.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sorry, my first time down there and I wouldn't even know where to look.
While on route, turn and look over your left shoulder to the horizon. Strobach Mountain.

 

Brian,

Far far far too early for ice yet on Strobach - give it another coupla months.

Should be good to go by December, but possibly by Thanksgiving if it gets cold enough.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agree with the looseness, but it wouldn't keep me from recommending the route to someone. Sure, some pitches were scary loose, but the climbing is never too hard and it has it's fun moments (like the hand crack slight overhang pitch). After doing it I better understood why the guidebook says that some people just do the first couple pitches and rap off with double ropes. Still, I enjoyed doing the whole route, looseness included.

 

What I found odd about the summit of goose egg was the fact that not only were there loose blocks, but unlike other talus I've come across, this talus was not settled like what you would see in a rock gully. The blocks up there seemed almost placed in a way that whatever you touched, moved and slid. If the area had a good earthquake I believe it would make the climb 3x safer :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Agree with the looseness, but it wouldn't keep me from recommending the route to someone. Sure, some pitches were scary loose, but the climbing is never too hard and it has it's fun moments (like the hand crack slight overhang pitch). After doing it I better understood why the guidebook says that some people just do the first couple pitches and rap off with double ropes. Still, I enjoyed doing the whole route, looseness included.
Agree with your assessment, Doug.

 

What I found odd about the summit of goose egg was the fact that not only were there loose blocks, but unlike other talus I've come across, this talus was not settled like what you would see in a rock gully. The blocks up there seemed almost placed in a way that whatever you touched, moved and slid. If the area had a good earthquake I believe it would make the climb 3x safer :)

Yes, that is the weirdest talus collection that I've ever come across. It's like it never got shook up enough to get settled out. It's like it's fresh rockfall, but there's nowhere from which it could fall. And I love the scratchy, clanky sounds it makes when it shifts... :crazy:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Choss Pile! Why on earth would you take that route to the top? Just finish it after the bulging handcrack pitch and rap down. Better yet after the second pitch, better yet go climb at the Bend.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
included.If the area had a good earthquake I believe it would make the climb 3x safer :)

 

Doug Robinson told me that he and others believe that the southern sections of the Eastern Sierras were cleared of a lot of loose rock by nuclear testing in the Mojave. Hearsay upon hearsay, but it's an interesting idea.

 

Maybe if Rainier blows up Tieton will be cleared of loose rock. Then again, St Helens didn't seem to help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If the area had a good earthquake I believe it would make the climb 3x safer :)

 

Would probably cause some rockfall, dislodge a lot of material and loosen up what solid rock there is. Goose Egg Mountain is completely incipiently jointer, and the exfoliations will no stop until the mountain is washed to the sea

 

Doug Robinson told me that he and others believe that the southern sections of the Eastern Sierras were cleared of a lot of loose rock by nuclear testing in the Mojave. Hearsay upon hearsay, but it's an interesting idea

 

An idea with not a shred of credence.

 

Right up there with needing an aluminum foil hat to stop the CIA, NSA and the UFO's from reading your brainwaves. The resultant seismic waves from nuclear testing never exceeded any of the very common micro- and minor earthquakes which affect the Cordilleran yearly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Right up there with needing an aluminum foil hat to stop the CIA, NSA and the UFO's from reading your brainwaves.

You're telling me that this thing ain't working? OMFG, we're doomed! Doomed, I tell ya!

george-in-a-tin-foil-hat.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I work at a company that provides stock photography and that is THE BEST picture I've seen this week! Thanks for sharing :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×