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[TR] Squamish - The Free Grand, 5.13b 10/5/2010


marc_leclerc

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Trip: Squamish - The Free Grand, 5.13b

 

Date: 10/5/2010

 

Trip Report:

The Grand Wall in Squamish is easily one of my favourite routes, steep exposed granite, beautiful crack systems, great climbing! But as most of you know, there are two bolt ladders involved, one to get to the Split Pillar and one to get from The Sword to Perry's Layback.

Every time I got to the top of the second bolt ladder I would stare down the crux slab and dream of climbing it, inching my way along that desparately thin sloping ramp.

 

A couple days ago I finally got the chance to try, my friend Paul Cordy suggested we go try the 'Underfling', the continuation of the Sword corner that leads to the base of the crux slab. From there I could try the slab, and if necessary pull on the bolts to at least get to the top of the wall.

We hiked to the start of 'Merci Me' and simul climbed to the belay below the first short bolt ladder, just below the Split Pillar. Above us was the first 'free variation' the 12b boulder problem to the start of the pillar.

I took the lead and started up 'The Left Side' corner, clipped the bolt out right and managed to magic my way over to the base of the Pillar via some weird double gaston moves and a bit of a sideways leap. Psyched to have onsighted the first hard section, I put in a directional and belayed Paul to the base of the Pillar.

Paul lead up the pillar and I then went for the 45 meter link up of 'The Sword' into the 'Underfling' finishing with a cruxy mantle to a hands free stance at the start of the slab. This link makes for a forearm burning pitch of 5.13a enduro laybacking!

I made it to the second bolt of the Underfling before taking a hang, then I took one more hang before pulling the mantle. Paul followed in similar style and I started psyching up for the 5.13b slab above.

The slab went well, I just missed the onsight! I fell just as I was stepping over the belay ledge, then I did the move second try. Paul pulled on some bolts to get across then we raced up to bellygood ledge and walked off as it started raining!

I was happy with the day, but vowed to return very soon for the send!

 

My chance came quickly! I took one rest day and teamed up with my friend Jason Kruk to try the route again. We started nice and early to ensure I would have good temps for the send and decided to take the 'Apron Strings' approach, just so it would feel nice and complete.

I took along 12 draws, a single set of cams to #3 camalot and two wires, one for the start of 'The Left Side' and one for 'The Sword'.

Jason led the first pitch of 'Apron Strings' and I led up to the base of 'Merci Me'. This route was such a great warm up and like all of the Grand Wall it is such a joy to climb!

We quickly cruised along to the first crux, which I managed to dispatch quite easily after onsighting it two days earlier. Instead of stopping I just continued up the Pillar, laybacking and jamming the beautiful crack, stopping along the way to place 3 cams. Jason followed quickly followed, obviously enjoying this incredible pitch just as much as I did, then it was business time.

I was quite worried about the next pitch, the 'Sword + Underling' link as I had found it quite hard and pumpy the last time I had tried. I cruised up the Sword, another incredible pitch and was pleased to have climbed it very efficiently, I still felt completely fresh as I clipped the chains at the end of that pitch and started into the Underfling. Just as I started into the crux of the Underfling, my feet suddenly slipped out on some grit and I fell off! I lowered back down to the ledge 1/3 of the way up the Sword, the original belay ledge used for the free ascent anyhow, and went for it again. Just like before I felt great as I clipped the chains and started into 'The Underfling', this time I placed my feet well and pulled through the rest of the hard laybacking. I felt like I was climbing very well, and was hardly pumped at all when I reached the final kneebar rest before the crux mantle. I fully took the kneebar 'no hands rest' in the middle of the wall, it was just too airy and exposed not to! Then I got psyched and went for the mantle. I went back into the layback, got my right foot SUPER high onto a good hold near my hands, scrunched into a tiny ball, then fired for the crimp out right and stood up. As I clipped the anchor I let out a big, 'WHOOP', I was very psyched to have sent the pitch that I had been the most concerned about!

Jason followed quite well, resting on the rope just once and nailing the mantle perfectly with my beta!

Now I just had to get across the 13b slab and it would basically be a done deal! My friend Chris had rapped in from bellygood ledge to shoot the slab, so when he was ready I started up.

I felt pretty good through the beginning, a little shaky on the highstep in the middle, then I crimped hard on some tiny crystals, did an intricate step through onto a miniscule crystal smear and slowly leaned out left. My foot crept onto the belay ledge, and I slowly rocked over pulling on the tiny crystals to stay in balance! I pulled onto the ledge, clipped the chains' and let out another, WHOOP'! I was so psyched to have sent the slab crux first try of the day, second try ever!

Jason did such a great job following the pitch, he JUST slipped at the very end, and he had not been on it for at least a couple years!

Jason grabbed the draws and led off up 'Perry's Layback' skipping several bolts along the way, then I led the nice slab through 'The Flats'. Jason cruised up the excellent final flake pitch to bellygood ledge and I cruised up with a huge smile on my face!

I had certainly not expected to free the Grand Wall this year, I had never even considered it much, with all my other project I am working on the Chief. But I am very glad to have done it, it is such a beautiful and classic route! I am also really thankful that Jason agreed to come out and climb it with me, would not have happened other wise! Thanks man!

 

Now for some pics of that slab :)

 

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Just starting across, using two thumb gastons to get my feet established on the rail.

 

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At the second bolt, just before a strange cruxy highstep.

 

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Doing a weird balancy move, involving pushing and pulling hard on crystals to prevent me from teetering backwards while standing up.

 

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Hard slab requires much focus!

 

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Jason following the slab! Super exposed and exciting!

 

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Jason cruises along the awesome

Perry's Layback'

 

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Jason on the last pitch, the Sail Flake, 5.10c. This jusg haul makes you feel like Peter Croft every time!

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

12 draws, one set of cams, one small offset wire, one medium stopper.

 

Approach Notes:

Super easy walk....

Edited by marc_leclerc
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Marc,

Jason looks a lot like that guy that was in a youtube vid on here a few weeks back that was climbing hung-over and he shit his pants on route. Same guy? If so, righteously funny to see him climbering with you. :laf:

 

And great kudos on you guys' variation. Way to send, man!

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Pretty funny stuff...strikes me as a stand up fellow who can laugh at himself/the situation. Kinda reminds me of climbing in the bugs a few years back and came down with a case of the Kain Hut runs. Tough, but necessary, to stop mid-climb and address the call of nature. Have packed Imodium on every trip since.

 

[video:youtube]

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