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Spiral_Out

Solo alpine day trips I-90 corridor

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Howdy ya'll,

 

I was just wondering if anybody has any favorite alpine climbs in the I-90 corridor/ sky valley that are conducive to a soloing day trip. Im looking for something that would max out around 5.6 and would not require rappelling so I can run in, fire it, and run out. I'll be checking my becky guide but thought I would dip into the vast knowledge well that is cascade climbers.

 

Cheers

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I soloed the rosevelt-kaleetan traverse in 8.05 hrs round trip. its great. only a short section of not so good rock but most is solid 4th and low 5th and a walk off. have fun

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The Tooth is pretty easy to run in, solo up and down and run out.

 

Lundin Peak has a nice low 5th route on it.

 

South Face of Ingalls Peak is about 5.4 and is easy to solo up and down. I think there may be an easier down climb as well?

 

West Ridge of Stuart is 5.6 and is doable in a day and the descent down Cascadian Couloir is non-technical (but not enjoyable either).

Edited by danielpatricksmith

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I would add the South Rib of Guye peak to your list, particularly if you do not have a lot of time. The difficulty varies according to your desires and it is very straight forward.

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vesper peak - not exactly off the i90 but still close - recent tr's would indicate you can get yerself messed up there if yer not careful though! :)

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all good suggestions. i'd add the W ridge of Thomson, mostly running, with a few pitches of rock. straight from the first Snoq Pass exit.

 

The Red/Lundin/Mt Snoq (or vice-versa) traverse is an entertaining romp too.

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Not I-90 / Sky Valley, but W Ridge of Forbidden is a good solo day trip from Seattle and uber classic.

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W ridge of Thompson. The chimney route up Chair.

 

Warning: a lot of the rock in the SnoQ pass area is loose and fractured. Proceed with caution.

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For the record, I advise against Chair Peak. I soloed the NEB with a finish on the East face under the roof. I found it to be mostly loose 4th class with a few steps of low 5th that are no fun to downclimb.

 

Sorry, Rad. I was typing the same time as you. I cannot comment on the Chimney route.

 

 

Edited by yikes

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For the record, I advise against Chair Peak. I soloed the NEB with a finish on the East face under the roof. I found it to be mostly loose 4th class with a few steps of low 5th that are no fun to downclimb.

 

 

NEB loose, really? I don't remember much looseness at all. Must be my memory failing.

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There is little doubt that the descent gully is loose. Chair is probably the deadliest Snoqualmie peak fwiw.

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There is little doubt that the descent gully is loose. Chair is probably the deadliest Snoqualmie peak fwiw.

 

I guess at some point during my 15 ascents (14 in winter, once in summer) of Chair Peak I should have gleaned that.

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I remember on chairs NEB a very loose class 4 section at about the same hight as the crux band on the east face. I did solo it but i wouldnt again

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I did NEB Chair once in summer. I remember it as a pleasant, solid climb up the 's' shaped gulley, maybe a bit loose once on the ridge, but an easy, clean, leftward traverse across the east face on a ledge system (I recall an old bolt somewhere there) and some blocky climbing on the far left side of the face to gain lower angled heather slopes. These heather slopes were the sketchiest part of the climb. Certainly not hard, not loose, but no pro (no need for a rope at that point anyway). Perhaps the scramble down the gulley to the col was a bit loose but it certainly does not stand out in my mind as being any looser than other Cascades gullies. The rappel down the gulley was a surprise, usually I have done it with one single rope rap over the cornice and downclimbing the rest. This time it took mulitple raps. I do remember taking shelter under chockstones while my partner rapped, but don't remember anything comming down. Burnt into my mind, however, is the horrible scree field below the east face. I did the climb in low top approach shoes and my ankles were pretty banged up afterwards.

 

Can't remember who said it, but a well know alpinist said the most important attribute for an alpinist is a short memory. Now only if I had the other requisite skills I may have amounted to something in the climbing world.

Edited by danielpatricksmith

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I remember on chairs NEB a very loose class 4 section at about the same hight as the crux band on the east face. I did solo it but i wouldnt again

Just did it solo for the first and last time today. The potential for loose rock is just too tangible. I updated some of the alpine rap stations as well (out of necessity).

Edited by summitchaserCJB

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