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Solo alpine day trips I-90 corridor


Spiral_Out

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Howdy ya'll,

 

I was just wondering if anybody has any favorite alpine climbs in the I-90 corridor/ sky valley that are conducive to a soloing day trip. Im looking for something that would max out around 5.6 and would not require rappelling so I can run in, fire it, and run out. I'll be checking my becky guide but thought I would dip into the vast knowledge well that is cascade climbers.

 

Cheers

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The Tooth is pretty easy to run in, solo up and down and run out.

 

Lundin Peak has a nice low 5th route on it.

 

South Face of Ingalls Peak is about 5.4 and is easy to solo up and down. I think there may be an easier down climb as well?

 

West Ridge of Stuart is 5.6 and is doable in a day and the descent down Cascadian Couloir is non-technical (but not enjoyable either).

Edited by danielpatricksmith
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For the record, I advise against Chair Peak. I soloed the NEB with a finish on the East face under the roof. I found it to be mostly loose 4th class with a few steps of low 5th that are no fun to downclimb.

 

Sorry, Rad. I was typing the same time as you. I cannot comment on the Chimney route.

 

 

Edited by yikes
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For the record, I advise against Chair Peak. I soloed the NEB with a finish on the East face under the roof. I found it to be mostly loose 4th class with a few steps of low 5th that are no fun to downclimb.

 

 

NEB loose, really? I don't remember much looseness at all. Must be my memory failing.

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I did NEB Chair once in summer. I remember it as a pleasant, solid climb up the 's' shaped gulley, maybe a bit loose once on the ridge, but an easy, clean, leftward traverse across the east face on a ledge system (I recall an old bolt somewhere there) and some blocky climbing on the far left side of the face to gain lower angled heather slopes. These heather slopes were the sketchiest part of the climb. Certainly not hard, not loose, but no pro (no need for a rope at that point anyway). Perhaps the scramble down the gulley to the col was a bit loose but it certainly does not stand out in my mind as being any looser than other Cascades gullies. The rappel down the gulley was a surprise, usually I have done it with one single rope rap over the cornice and downclimbing the rest. This time it took mulitple raps. I do remember taking shelter under chockstones while my partner rapped, but don't remember anything comming down. Burnt into my mind, however, is the horrible scree field below the east face. I did the climb in low top approach shoes and my ankles were pretty banged up afterwards.

 

Can't remember who said it, but a well know alpinist said the most important attribute for an alpinist is a short memory. Now only if I had the other requisite skills I may have amounted to something in the climbing world.

Edited by danielpatricksmith
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  • 2 weeks later...
I remember on chairs NEB a very loose class 4 section at about the same hight as the crux band on the east face. I did solo it but i wouldnt again

Just did it solo for the first and last time today. The potential for loose rock is just too tangible. I updated some of the alpine rap stations as well (out of necessity).

Edited by summitchaserCJB
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