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Where should I climb?


LilWing

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Starting in January my soul is sold to Nursing School for the next two solid years. This means the beginning of the end for climbing for a while and a quick descent into misery. I have plenty of routes in Tieton and Index I want to get on before I hole up in my basement, but I need suggestions for good routes in Leavenworth and surrounding areas. I can comfortably lead 5.8 trad and 510- sport. I will follow anything under hard 11s. Any suggestions of where I should hit up would be greatly appreciated.

 

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Nursing school doesn't need to be the end of climbing for you. I finished nursing school in March and climbed consistently throughout all four years (including pre-reqs). I logged 40+ days ice climbing (from PDX!) in the last two years, trained hard and did two expeditions to S. America.

 

Feel free to PM about strategies for maintaining sanity. It's rough but as long as you're focused, realistic, and determined you can engage both simultaneously.

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A few non-comprehensive Leavenworth suggestions for 5.10- climbers:

 

Single Pitch:

 

Clem's Holler: favorite 5.9/10 sport area at Leavenworth (that I've been to), also one worthwhile trad route. Lots of multipitch sport routes, but they can all be done first-pitch only.

 

Classic Crack and Dogleg Crack are both 5.8+ trad and close to the road. Most people agree with the + part (hint: if you have small hands, it is much easier to lead Classic than TR it)

 

Pearly Gates: one of my favorite 5.8/5.9 trad areas. Especially if it's hot out because it's in the shade until afternoon, which is pretty rare for LW.

 

Hobo Gulch: quite a few mostly-bolted-bring-a-couple-cams routes in the 10- range. Watch out for hornets.

 

Multipitch:

 

Givler's Crack: easy 5.7, but lots of fun

 

Condorphamine Addiction: 6p 10b bolted slab.

 

Careno Crag Regular Route: (the crux is on the first pitch, slab climbing on gear)

 

Duty Dome, Straight Street: 5.9+ (the 9+ part is the bolted first pitch, I think the second trad pitch is easier, wasn't really paying attention because it started raining)

(lots of other stuff at Duty Dome)

 

(and of course there's Outer Space and Orbit, but I still haven't had a chance to get on those so I can't give a personal recommendation!)

 

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Leavenworth

 

Prime Rib-Heart of Gold

Fault->Catapult>-Bone->S Face Jello Tower-> Midway on Castle Rock

Yard art to W Face Peekaboo tower.

Aquamarine and neighboring climbs

Arms Control

Bo Derek

Tubbing at Der Ritterhof

I liked aspects of the Bale-Kramar, kind of depends on you

 

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