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Stone Rodeo

JosephH

By JosephH
in Columbia River Gorge

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billcoe Gumby

billcoe

Posted
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So if anyone does have a problem with me rebolting Stone Rodeo then speak up an explain exactly and specifically what your objection is.

 

Fine, you asked. I have a problem, so I'm asking you not to touch it until Kenny has had a chance to lead it with the bolts that are existing there, to decide if they are OK or not.

 

Please. Do not touch it till he OK's it. I'm not joking or kidding.

 

StoneRodeoBolt.jpg

Kenny, I can belay you on it Saturday. What say? Then you can tell JH next Monday to leave it be in it's original wahhh. BTW, no falls this time cause I don't know about these old fuckers. OK? no falls. Really.

___________________________________________________________________

 

You all know what the pup said when he wiped his butt with sandpaper?

 

"RUFF"

 

Hope that contributes to the sandpaper discussion.

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ivan Gumby

ivan

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moderates of the world unite!!!

 

but the meeting's gotta be after 5 when i'm done w/ work, and over by 6 so i can get the kids to soccer, dig?

 

i don't care how many bolts are there, just that the ones that are there are reliable - i'd like there to be enough bolts so it could be aided at least, which doesn't sound like more than what was originally there in the first place, eh?

 

 

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JosephH Gumby

JosephH

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Seems like the bolts must be there for good reason. Its obviously not getting done very often, if at all lately. To me, replacing the bolts sounds like a good idea, but not chopping just for chopping bolts.

Wait a minute - weren't you just going on about respecting the FA and the "rules of climbing"? So you guys are all up about Wayne and Bob doing the route (as I am regardless of who did the FFA), but you suddenly don't care about in the style the FA and FFA was done in? Hmmmm, curiouser and curiouser; I think I can feel the Beacon Reality-Distortion Field Generator about to go into overdrive to explain this one...

 

I'd sure be interested as to what would constitute a "good reason" for someone not the FA or FFA adding two bolts to a climb and lowering a third one three feet. Hey, what about tradition? What about 'the rules of climbing'? What about the style of the FA and FFA? At least the first three free ascents were done with the single high bolt.

 

It would be good to know who added the additional bolts, but we can easily surmise why they did without asking them.

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pink Gumby

pink

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Posted (edited)

that is why i asked, what is the history of this route? you never answer that question a) cause you don't know or b) you think it's some sort of trick question. why did somebody add those bolts? you don't strike me as a surmiser, a little too point a to b for ur personality.

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pink Gumby

pink

Posted
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moderates of the world unite!!!

 

i don't care how many bolts are there, just that the ones that are there are reliable - i'd like there to be enough bolts so it could be aided at least, which doesn't sound like more than what was originally there in the first place, eh?

 

 

not as much as care about trip reports :yawn:

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JosephH Gumby

JosephH

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It appears that no one really knows who did the first free ascent, so that is why I suggest not chopping anything.

No, we do know who did the FFA - either McGown or Foster and whichever one did it, they did it on the single high bolt. The only part of the history we don't know at this point according to Wayne is who retro'ed in the other to bolts and moved the top bolt down.

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LostCamKenny Gumby

LostCamKenny

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No Kenny, I'm not going to do the next retrobolting, I'm going to rebolt it and check the pins and make sure either they are solid or replace them with something that is either pin or bolt. It will have the exact same number of fixed protection points it has now, in the same places they're at now. If there are any 'sides' in that rebolting then I can't imagine why, or what the objection could possible be, other than Kevin's complaint it needs more bolts. I have a pretty hard time believing either Farrgo or Eldiente who might actually climb it are going to have any complaints.

 

So if anyone does have a problem with me rebolting Stone Rodeo then speak up an explain exactly and specifically what your objection is. Kenny, why exactly would you have any problem whatsoever with rebolting it? Why do you think anyone would have any problem with it?

 

P.S. I did just go a aid half the thing in a downpour, with water streaming out of the crack. I stopped when I got to the really bad bolt or it would already be done. At this point it doesn't matter how it gets done, just that all the fixed protection on it is solid.

 

 

local ethic, dood, local ethic... the only bolts that have been power drilled out there are yours. man up and do it in a way that will make you look like a badass instead of a limp-wristed pussy with a lil dawg(sorry bill, no offense :) )

 

i don't have a problem with them being replaced if they are done in the original style... the power drill is NOT original style! leave that for ozone or farside or something where toproping is more common - leave it alone until someone actually climbs the thing to an anchor and has some real feel about how it goes with the bolts that are there. if the one who does it is a solid .12 climber then they aren't going to fall anyway to test the bolts you think need replacing. you are not the bolt authority out there, nor are you the only one who can (and is authorized to) place a bolt.

 

and why do you think that Nate^2 (that's eldiente and Farrgo) will even be on it? did they say they would climb it? and if they do, what makes you think that someone who solos blownout doesn't have the head to climb past a rusty bolt and not fall? leave it alone, joe, until someone else can go look at it... just because they can be replaced your way doesn't mean they should be replaced your way. just lay off, dood! :)

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LostCamKenny Gumby

LostCamKenny

Posted
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No Kenny, I'm not going to do the next retrobolting, I'm going to rebolt it and check the pins and make sure either they are solid or replace them with something that is either pin or bolt. It will have the exact same number of fixed protection points it has now, in the same places they're at now. If there are any 'sides' in that rebolting then I can't imagine why, or what the objection could possible be, other than Kevin's complaint it needs more bolts. I have a pretty hard time believing either Farrgo or Eldiente who might actually climb it are going to have any complaints.

 

So if anyone does have a problem with me rebolting Stone Rodeo then speak up an explain exactly and specifically what your objection is. Kenny, why exactly would you have any problem whatsoever with rebolting it? Why do you think anyone would have any problem with it?

 

P.S. I did just go a aid half the thing in a downpour, with water streaming out of the crack. I stopped when I got to the really bad bolt or it would already be done. At this point it doesn't matter how it gets done, just that all the fixed protection on it is solid.

 

 

local ethic, dood, local ethic... the only bolts that have been power drilled out there are yours. man up and do it in a way that will make you look like a badass instead of a limp-wristed pussy with a lil dawg(sorry bill, no offense :) )

 

i don't have a problem with them being replaced if they are done in the original style... the power drill is NOT original style! leave that for ozone or farside or something where toproping is more common - leave it alone until someone actually climbs the thing to an anchor and has some real feel about how it goes with the bolts that are there. if the one who does it is a solid .12 climber then they aren't going to fall anyway to test the bolts you think need replacing. you are not the bolt authority out there, nor are you the only one who can (and is authorized to) place a bolt.

 

and why do you think that Nate^2 (that's eldiente and Farrgo) will even be on it? did they say they would climb it? and if they do, what makes you think that someone who solos blownout doesn't have the head to climb past a rusty bolt and not fall? these guys are mountaineers, strong mountaineers, not crag rats that will cower away at the thought of a bolt that might be bad. leave it alone, joe, until someone else can go look at it... just because they can be replaced your way doesn't mean they should be replaced your way. just lay off, dood! :)

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billcoe Gumby

billcoe

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Anything worth saying once is worth saying twice.

instead of a limp-wristed pussy with a lil dawg(sorry bill, no offense :) )

LOL! None taken and can totally relate. :) After @ 358 new bolts, I noticed that my actual climbing skill level had dropped radically. Decided to leave the drill alone and go climb cracks again. PS, I have some brand new Totem cams and I'm thinking Ivan, Powderhound and I will be soiling them most egregiously out at Beacon tomorrow. Wander over if you want to fondle one.....or worse better yet, have your way with one.

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JosephH Gumby

JosephH

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local ethic, dood, local ethic... the only bolts that have been power drilled out there are yours. man up and do it in a way that will make you look like a badass instead of a limp-wristed pussy with a lil dawg(sorry bill, no offense :) )

 

i don't have a problem with them being replaced if they are done in the original style... the power drill is NOT original style!

If I were placing a protection bolt on an FA at Beacon I would hand drill it. But for anchor work or rebolting - what's the point?

 

leave it alone until someone actually climbs the thing to an anchor and has some real feel about how it goes with the bolts that are there. if the one who does it is a solid .12 climber then they aren't going to fall anyway to test the bolts you think need replacing.

 

If the bolts that are there get replaced, they'll be getting replaced where they are. I don't 'think' the bolts need replacing, the bolts need replacing. The question on the table is whether two should be removed and the top one restored to its original location.

 

you are not the bolt authority out there, nor are you the only one who can (and is authorized to) place a bolt.

Yep, I'm doing you a favor, though in this case I doubt you'll ever be on the route.

 

and why do you think that Nate^2 (that's eldiente and Farrgo) will even be on it? did they say they would climb it? and if they do, what makes you think that someone who solos blownout doesn't have the head to climb past a rusty bolt and not fall? these guys are mountaineers, strong mountaineers, not crag rats that will cower away at the thought of a bolt that might be bad. leave it alone, joe, until someone else can go look at it... just because they can be replaced your way doesn't mean they should be replaced your way. just lay off, dood! :)

Both Nates are up for it, just ask them and Farrgo's already been working it. The bolts getting either removed or replaced, and the pins are getting checked - get over it.

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pink Gumby

pink

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Posted
It appears that no one really knows who did the first free ascent, so that is why I suggest not chopping anything.

No, we do know who did the FFA - either McGown or Foster and whichever one did it, they did it on the single high bolt. The only part of the history we don't know at this point according to Wayne is who retro'ed in the other to bolts and moved the top bolt down.

 

but u were quite certain that that foster did it for so long, and you've always said olsons book is full of misinformation, and that was ur source for the information.

 

Originally Posted By: JosephH

When we got on it we coincidentally and without realizing it had squeaked in after Bob had aided it, but before they freed it. There was a fixed wire and a couple of 1/4" bolts if I recall correctly, so it was a mixed line even then. But Foster did rings in college, was / is fearless to a fault, soloed a few 12s, and we lived for doing roofs so it wasn't much of a stretch for him. I was actually sketching on it way more following than he did on lead.

 

Edit: It would have been on my old rack that was later stolen so it would have been on nuts and original Friends of which I had a double sets. As I recall I freed up to the base of Silver Crow going out left from the Pipeline anchor after we finished Stone Rodeo. It was a good day and we hadn't seen each other in quite awhile.

 

 

you never admit ur wrong, it's not a bad thing to do joseph. :/

 

 

 

 

 

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pink Gumby

pink

Posted
Posted
It appears that no one really knows who did the first free ascent, so that is why I suggest not chopping anything.

No, we do know who did the FFA - either McGown or Foster and whichever one did it, they did it on the single high bolt. The only part of the history we don't know at this point according to Wayne is who retro'ed in the other to bolts and moved the top bolt down.

:/

 

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