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dberdinka

[TR] Mamie Peak - Ellation Crags 8/30/2010

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Bump for my own TR. Climbed Ellation on Saturday. It's almost completely dry with the exception of a move or two on the 3rd, crux pitch. My Colorado buddy thought it was worthy. Chalk on the route and a small loose hold on pitch 4 had recently given up the ghost so it's getting some traffic. Upper pitches are very clean and the final pitch now goes free with a single move of 11- (or C0). Anything harder than 10b/c is easily yarded past if need be.

 

Climbed another three pitch line as well that ended in "Daves Grand Dihedral" a low-angle 140' 5.7 corner with a hand crack running up the entire thing. From the mid-height grassy ledge of Ellation walk right around the corner 150' and look for an intimidating layback flake that leads to a small roof, 10+ or 11- but really hard to get the gear in (maybe it needs a few B.L.Ts). Next a very cool bolted 10- arete pitch leads to base of the Dihedral, mossy at the start but cleans up quickly. Made for a good picture at least.

 

 

granddihedralpano.jpg

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Climbed this today. Approach directions are easy to follow and the trail to the base is in fine shape. The route itself was really fun and is also in great shape. Thanks for the hard work that went into developing this.

Watch the rope eating crack that is called out in the topo. We tried our best to compensate for it, but the wind and my poor rope pulling skills combined to get the rope hopelessly stuck. Luckily, it is in such a location that there is plenty of rope left to lead back up to it and the pitch is easy enough to downclimb once the rope is unstuck.

Edited by ianv

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Climbed this route today for the first time in awhile. Invested a couple hours scrubbing the bits that had gotten mossy again during the last six years. P1 is still a bit dirty (and easy) but P2-P8 are as clean as they've ever been. Might be a good summer to get it done if it's been on the list. Approach trail is still discernible and in good shape. IMO a great route, though I may be a bit biased.

 

To avoid getting your rope stuck when rapping P6 put a leaver biner on the second bolt and have the last person clip the pull strand into it.

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