denalidave Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Since were changing ratings now, I vote Blownout should be 10d. 1st pitch or 2nd? How many points on 8a do ya get for 10 laps up the SE Corner? 2nd pitch. No 8a points for the corner as it only has a couple 5.7d+/- moves on it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 BTW, Bill, did you loose a nut tool on YW the other day? Describe it, and I will be sure to tell people whom I bootied it from... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 26, 2010 Author Share Posted August 26, 2010 Blownout 10.d? Not sure about that. I will go for 10.b/c for sure though. No way that is 10.a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Blownout 10.d? Not sure about that. I will go for 10.b/c for sure though. No way that is 10.a. I'd say most of the route is 10a/b but the final crux on the second pitch 10dish (IMO). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Blownout 10.d? Not sure about that. I will go for 10.b/c for sure though. No way that is 10.a. Can't be 10a as I am a 10a climber, yet I can't get my fat ass up the damn thing clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 26, 2010 Author Share Posted August 26, 2010 The way Jim described it to me in 96 was it was all 5.9 moves with three 10.a cruxes. And just think, I bought into that for a while until I wised up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 26, 2010 Author Share Posted August 26, 2010 Blownout 10.d? Not sure about that. I will go for 10.b/c for sure though. No way that is 10.a. Can't be 10a as I am a 10a climber, yet I can't get my fat ass up the damn thing clean. Guess your not a 10.a climber then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Blownout 10.d? Not sure about that. I will go for 10.b/c for sure though. No way that is 10.a. Can't be 10a as I am a 10a climber, yet I can't get my fat ass up the damn thing clean. No, not a 9d, or 10b climber, 10a... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Blownout 10.d? Not sure about that. I will go for 10.b/c for sure though. No way that is 10.a. Can't be 10a as I am a 10a climber, yet I can't get my fat ass up the damn thing clean. Guess your not a 10.a climber then. Only cause YW and Jill's are rated 9d+. If they were 10a (like they should be IMO), I'd could say I'm a 10a climber. Then again, we all know ratings are the purist form of science and there is never any room for doubting a rating, regardless of the type of climb, height, reach, weather, gear placements, mother's maiden name, blood alcohol level, etc... Oh, except for Blownout, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Blownout 10.d? Not sure about that. I will go for 10.b/c for sure though. No way that is 10.a. Can't be 10a as I am a 10a climber, yet I can't get my fat ass up the damn thing clean. Guess your not a 10.a climber then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 26, 2010 Author Share Posted August 26, 2010 Blownout 10.d? Not sure about that. I will go for 10.b/c for sure though. No way that is 10.a. Can't be 10a as I am a 10a climber, yet I can't get my fat ass up the damn thing clean. Guess your not a 10.a climber then. Only cause YW and Jill's are rated 9d+. If they were 10a (like they should be IMO), I'd could say I'm a 10a climber. Then again, we all know ratings are the purist form of science and there is never any room for doubting a rating, regardless of the type of climb, height, reach, weather, gear placements, mother's maiden name, blood alcohol level, etc... Oh, except for Blownout, of course. Who the hell rated Jills Thrill 5.9?. IMO that 10 feet of climbing is easily 10.a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Are you questioning JO??? You know you will burn in hell forever for that one. Not that you were not going to anyway, you infidel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 BTW, Bill, did you loose a nut tool on YW the other day? Describe it, and I will be sure to tell people whom I bootied it from... Not me, but I have a pretty pink curly tail thing hanging on my blue handled DMM nut tool that pairs well with pink shoes so if I ever lose it all the real men will want to give it right back. Kenny tells me that there's still a lost cam up on the ramp of the corner, you should bootie that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 BTW, Bill, did you loose a nut tool on YW the other day? Describe it, and I will be sure to tell people whom I bootied it from... Kenny tells me that there's still a lost cam up on the ramp of the corner, you should bootie that. How do you recon LCK got his namesake? I almost bootied it the day I met him, when he first placed the cam. I was like, hey a brand new cam, sweet. I fiddled with it enough to have it free, but then it walked back to where it sits now. I went up to Snag Ledge and met LCK... That must be your cam there eh... I've been meaning to give it another shot with a few more appropriate tools in tow, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 BTW, Bill, did you loose a nut tool on YW the other day? Describe it, and I will be sure to tell people whom I bootied it from... It was up a little way on p1 and I threw it down to the base in case someone came back for it. I suspect it belongs to the guys that were leaving when I walked up. One was older and bearded, the other younger, less experienced, and wearing brown Kaukulators. Didn't get their names. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Thanks Joe, I'll keep an eye out for them and if you see them again, please give them my #... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 27, 2010 Author Share Posted August 27, 2010 YW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 pitch 1 5.8 pitch 2 5.9 pitch 3 5.8 with a 5.10 move past the pin. In fact I think the pin is to reef on if you don't feel like making the move! pitch 4 5.9 the fact you can step left to avoid the direct pullover kind of takes the stiffness out of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 27, 2010 Author Share Posted August 27, 2010 You are missing pitch 5 bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 You must be doing the p3 crux differently than I am as it's barely 5.9- once you sort out the moves. And a 5.9 way over the p4 crux? I must be doing it way different from you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I'm not doing pitch 5 no mo due to the rockfall adjacency and the loose block Joseph mentioned due to the rockfall. I was up it first thing this season and didn't realize until I got up there how close it it to the scar.....spooky. but I think pitch 5 is about 5.7 that pitch 3 crux Joseph, its a crimpy little move and if you're not a crimper its stout. I can go with 5.9 because its only one move and the pin right there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Hmmm, I'm no crimper either and think it's mostly a matter of getting your feet setup well and then bumping your right foot up one level so you can then reach up to the horizontal seam with your right hand with no problem. Both those pins are solid and I'd wing on them any time if it's any comfort. P5 is fine, you just want to be sure and do the Opdycke variation straight up and left of the last bolt (over the angled fin) continuing straight up and definitely not bail out right at the bolt which will put you face-to-face with the rock I'd recommend people stay as far away from as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I don't have any problem with that move, I just figure its 5.10. Its hard for me to think seriously about one crimpy move after doing Liberty Crack yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I bet so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Beatard Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 P5 is fine, you just want to be sure and do the Opdycke variation straight up and left of the last bolt (over the angled fin) continuing straight up and definitely not bail out right at the bolt which will put you face-to-face with the rock I'd recommend people stay as far away from as possible. Can you have an Opdycke variation on an Opdycke climb? Would someone help an uninformed fella out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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