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[TR] Sloan Peak - w/ Optional Spire 8/16/2010


zoroastr

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Trip: Sloan Peak - w/ Optional Spire

 

Date: 8/16/2010

 

Trip Report:

On Sunday I joined EJohnson and Nick, an office pal with atomic legs, for a daytrip to the North Cascades and a relaxed afternoon's peakbagging. On this occasion, the target was a repeat of the normal glacier route on Sloan Peak. Ejay and I had done this one a few times already, but Nick had yet to sample Sloan's airy and ample alpine charms.

On our way to the top, we encountered much about which to rave: a half mile of beautiful, high glacier booting, endless postcard-worthy vistas, and a brisk workout on the local practice rock, a curious spire that juts abruptly from the summit crags. Planning a trip to the Alps? Save your money--this hike's got it all!

Some snaps....

 

JCain discovers ancient tat atop the spire...

sloan-b9s.jpg

 

Earlier in the day, Nick and EJ booting up the still-buried slabs on Sloan's lower portions, with Glacier Peak in the distance...

sloan-a6s.jpg

 

Johnson mounts the glacier...

sloan-a9s.jpg

 

Leaving the snow, about to turn that incredible corner (Sloan veterans, you know what I'm talking about :-))...

sloan-b2s.jpg

 

Johnson jogging the goat trails above Amazing Ridge (dunno what it's really called :-D )...

sloan-b4s.jpg

 

I'd seen this crag on previous trips, but never gave it a try, not wanting to lug gear for such a minor objective. This time, though, I took a good look at it from the approach, and thought it might go. Turned out to be a quick and easy freeclimb. A short offwidth crack leads to a huge, bomber flake; cheval over the flake to easy jugholds--nothing above, say, 5.3.

sloan-a3s.jpg

 

Back down after reversing the crack moves...

sloan-c3s.jpg

 

Nearing the summit, an airy catwalk trail leads to some fun class 3 scrambling to put you on top...

sloan-b5s.jpg

 

After swatting flies and ladybugs for half an hour, we left our summit perch and headed down, using remnant snow whenever possible to save time (plenty of nicely groomed boot-ski runs still available!). We made it back to the car with plenty of sunshine to spare after spending about 8.5 hours out. Incidentally, the creek ford, which in years past has been a challenge, is currently a well-flagged no-brainer.

 

Another fine day in the hills...

 

Gear Notes:

'Pons, stick, snax, tunez.

 

Approach Notes:

Huge, friendly log for the creek ford!

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