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KaskadskyjKozak

[TR] Triumph - NE Ridge 8/15/2010

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Trip: Triumph - NE Ridge

 

Date: 8/15/2010

 

Trip Report:

 

Last year, Mountainguy01 and I tried to climb Triumph and got denied a permit, and had to opt for Black Peak instead. So this year we were more careful. We called on Friday to be sure a slot was open then got to the ranger station before opening. :-)

 

Despite an early wakeup we did not mind our early start as the temperatures rose quickly. By the time we go to the ridge above Thornton Lakes, the heat was becoming oppressive and only got worse. Despite this MG01 seemed to not be phased. I gradually began to eat more and more shit. I arrived at the col just over 5 hours in, a bit behind MG01.

 

KK eating shit on the approach:

Triumph_-_14-15_Aug_10_8_.JPG

 

We opted for a bivy camp at the col. There was plenty of fresh running water. Views were great as it was a bluebird day.

 

Neither MG01 or I wanted to miss work on Monday, so we discussed a real early wakeup (3 am). 3 am came, and MG01 called out "hey, what do you think... it's pretty dark out". Snooze for 30 min. "It's still looking dark out". Snooze for 30. OK, time to get up.

 

We made quick work of the snow field with only some issues sidehilling the steep, icy snow out of camp (with downward sloping sun cups and bad runout). Crampons were required here.

We stuck almost 100% of snow with just a rock island or two and ended up on the ramp system below the notch and to the right of the gully. We scrambled class 3 to the notch, and roped up there. We opted to use rock shoes and were glad for it on the way up.

 

View back to the col:

P1000621.JPG

 

We climbed the bottom and middle parts of the route with alternating running belays. This made for efficient climbing and brought us to the final tower fairly early (9 or so). We then belayed a pitch up to the off-width (I led), and then the off width itself (MG01 led). The offwidth protected well and was a hell of a lot of fun (albeit short). After that we simulclimbed to the summit.

 

Simulclimbing above the first step:

P1000622.JPG

 

 

KK leading:

Triumph_-_14-15_Aug_10_40_.JPG

 

KK belaying:

Triumph_-_14-15_Aug_10_35_.JPG

 

MG01 leading:

P1000631.JPG

 

All in all it took us 6 hours from camp to summit, so we were feeling pretty good.

 

Summit stoke:

P1000636.JPG

 

Then came the rappels. I lost count how many we did... maybe 8. It seemed like I got in a season's worth of yelling/hearing "on rappel, rope, off rappel" in one day. For a long section in the middle, we just scrambled unroped. Three and a half hours later we were back at the snow, feeling baked like Thanksgiving turkeys in a rotisserie, or maybe beef jerky. The views were wonderful all the way up and down of course.

 

Rappeling the NE ridge:

Triumph_-_14-15_Aug_10_52_.JPG

 

More rappelling... the views are glorious!

P1000650.JPG

 

I had a liter of gatorade in my pack. We chugged more water melting off the glacier/snow fields. It was not enough. I dipped my head in the pools, washed my face off. The relief was short-lived every time.

 

The steep snow below camp was a little softer, but still icy even after a lot of afternoon sun exposure (now in shade again). It was not too bad however, but definitely good to have crampons on for.

 

KK looking back at the route:

Triumph_-_14-15_Aug_10_64_.JPG

 

We relaxed briefly at camp and headed down around 4:30. The lower we got, the worse the heat was. You could not keep ahead of it by chugging water. 4 hours later, with dusk setting in we got to the cars. My feet repeatedly, and more forcefully yelled "f*** you a-hole" the longer the day went on. Sorry, feet!

 

All the Marblemount spots were closed by the time we drove out, so it was salty chips and a coke for me. It was a toss-up whether the flat trail/road hiking or the drive home sucked more.

 

But the great summit day made it worth it all!

 

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe, crampons, and small alpine rack, with cams up to BD #3. Rock shoes make it fun.

 

Approach Notes:

Hot. Damn hot.

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Well done, KK. I hear you want to join me on my CNMtAdiOD? :laf:

 

There is a limit to the amount of suffering I am willing to endure... and I think that that trip would far exceed my threshold. :-)

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Nice work. Such a fun climb.

 

When did you climb this route, Kevin?

 

2006. We went car to car in 22 hours. That was a bad idea. My body was totally wrecked by the time we got back to the car.

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2006. We went car to car in 22 hours. That was a bad idea. My body was totally wrecked by the time we got back to the car.

 

Impressive! It's quite a hump for a C2C!

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2006. We went car to car in 22 hours. That was a bad idea. My body was totally wrecked by the time we got back to the car.

 

Impressive! It's quite a hump for a C2C!

 

Like I said, it was a bad idea. We brought all the gear for over night and at the last minute we decided to go car to car to save weight. My knee blew out on me and the batteries to one of our headlamps got lost (not sure how that happened) so the last 5 miles back to the car was in the dark with a gimp (me) and only one light source. It was slow going. But we made it. What a fun trip never the less.....super cool climb. We simuled it with one rope, we tied off 100 feet apart from each other and did it in 5 pitches. I recall 10 raps with about 500 feet of downclimbing.

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I soloed this route (with a partner) about 5 years ago, and we only roped up for the short 5.7 crack (pictured above as MG01 Leading). It was great, and though steep and exposed in short spots, overall, seemed very secure given the proliferation of positive, incut edges for hands and feet. Sure made it go by quickly and pleasantly. Thanks for the good memories and nice images of the route.

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Love your eye for the foto. I've looked at a lot of TR's of this climb and you have a lot of unusual shots.

 

thanks! but some are taken by my climbing partner, so he gets some props!

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seems like a lot more snow on the approach slabs than when i did it a few years back - dem global warming types really must be off their rockers? :)

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