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markseker

[TR] Mt Jefferson - SW Ridge 8/3/2010

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Trip: Mt Jefferson - SW Ridge

 

Date: 8/3/2010

 

Trip Report:

Mt. Jefferson, Oregon: Summit trip report, Aug 2-4, 2010

 

SUMMARY: Entire SW Ridge route including summit block in great condition for smooth hiking/climbing on standard lines per Oregon High (Jeff Thomas). Our team of 3 (Brian S, Vern K, Mark S) left Pamelia Lake TH std route to faint SW ridge access trail used from PCT approx 25 mins S of Milk Creek crossing, then easy bushwacking to gain SW ridge. Camped at existing site at 6500' where small remaining snow patches provided water. Next snow approx 7500'. Ridge bare except for small snow patch requiring crampons to R of horn below red saddle. Running belay across solid all-snow boot path traverse and around corner to base of summit block. Continued mixed climbing NE to 4th class ramp back SW to final pitch belay station. Crampons/ax off for final 120' fun scamper to lick top rock. Rapped off to reverse it all. To our surprise and delight, no rock/ice fall detected on 5pm traverse down. TH to camp:~6 hours; Camp to summit: 10 hours; Back to camp: 8 hours.

 

CHALLENGES: Where to turn left off PCT? Who has the bug juice? How do we unjam this knot caught at the summit sling ring? Anyone have extra water (16 hours into summit day)? Where exactly is our camp (lost after dark)?

 

GEAR: 2x30m ropes, 3 pickets, nuts, dozen slings, 2 screws (unused), 3rd tool.

 

PHOTOS (public gallery): http://picasaweb.google.com/markseker/JeffersonSummitViaSwRidge?feat=directlink

 

Gear Notes:

GEAR: 2x30m ropes, 3 pickets, nuts, dozen slings, 2 screws (unused), 3rd tool.

 

Approach Notes:

Pamelia Lake TH to PCT

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Thanks for sharing your adventure.

Sounds like you had a looong day on summit day.

 

 

natural wild hot springs

For realz?

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