LUCKY Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 The route Love bucket, someone has removed the third bolt and replaced it in a different location this lengthens out the fall at the second crux going to the fourth bolt especially for short climbers like myself that clip the forth bolt below the chest, this has changed the Character of the route especially as an onsight because the third bolt was slightly hidden…at this point the new bolt will probably stay but don’t look for a thank you. The route Architects Rally there has been a pair of hardware store safety hooks installed on the chains they are ugly and not climbing hardware and could be dangerous if clipped wrong. A few years ago I installed a pair of spend’y FIXE sport anchors at the top of Big Mama because of the awarkward anchor stance, so now you can clip and lower, this is not the case with architects rally, the stance is good, if someone feels the need to clip and lower please use approved climbing hardware. Will the person who installed them take them off, if not they will be removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 The route Love bucket, someone has removed the third bolt and replaced it in a different location this lengthens out the fall at the second crux going to the fourth bolt especially for short climbers like myself that clip the forth bolt below the chest, this has changed the Character of the route especially as an onsight because the third bolt was slightly hidden…at this point the new bolt will probably stay but don’t look for a thank you. The route Architects Rally there has been a pair of hardware store safety hooks installed on the chains they are ugly and not climbing hardware and could be dangerous if clipped wrong. A few years ago I installed a pair of spend’y FIXE sport anchors at the top of Big Mama because of the awarkward anchor stance, so now you can clip and lower, this is not the case with architects rally, the stance is good, if someone feels the need to clip and lower please use approved climbing hardware. Will the person who installed them take them off, if not they will be removed. Lets ask Raindawg for his opinion. Maybe he'll declare a fatwa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilWing Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 Thanks for sticking up for us short climbers... That did make it much scarier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.