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DanielHarro

[TR] Alaska Range - Peak 11,300 4/22/2010

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Trip: Alaska Range - Peak 11,300Date: 4/22/2010Trip Report:Here is a video I made from our trip into the Alaska Range this past April. [video:vimeo]

Alaska Range Spring 2010 from Daniel Harro on Vimeo.

Gear Notes:.4-#3 Camelot and #11 BD hex1 Picket4 screwsSingle rope with tag line Edited by DanielHarro

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Above the grey rock bivy site was the worst of the trenching and with all seriousness I made a trench so high or I guess deep that I could not reach the top with my arm fully extended with a tool in my hand. I was forced to climb out of the trench after about two hrs of wet sugary leading. All in all it was a great learning experience.

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Above the grey rock bivy site was the worst of the trenching and with all seriousness I made a trench so high or I guess deep that I could not reach the top with my arm fully extended with a tool in my hand. I was forced to climb out of the trench after about two hrs of wet sugary leading. All in all it was a great learning experience.

So how was ave danger? It looked fairly stable - but maybe you edited out the scary parts for mom? :laf:

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So your are the guys I owe beer to. I climbed the route with Kevin Mahoney with AMS, we started up the route April 27th. Those trenches were incredible.

 

What an awesome route. Thanks again for all the effort.

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Cool video!

 

I was out there at the same time. I think you are camped below me on April 24th. Looks like your tents in this short vid I took. I did not get to climb this trip, just went out to putz around on my skis before starting work up there. I could not resist the perfect bluebird day so I went in for just one night. Glad to see you guys made it up in suffer-fest style! :brew:

 

[video:youtube]

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Hampshire-

 

I prefer Alaskan Summer Ale!! Do you have any cool photos from your tip? You had the right idea flying into the base of 11,300. Did you meet the two east coast guys that made the second ascent of the season?

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Hampshire-

 

I prefer Alaskan Summer Ale!! Do you have any cool photos from your tip? You had the right idea flying into the base of 11,300. Did you meet the two east coast guys that made the second ascent of the season?

My favorite shot from that trip was this one...

 

smaller_Ruth_Glacier_Moon_3.jpg but you can sift through a shit ton more Here - AK Range for a Day Pics

 

Also, more vids at my YouTube site(s) Dave's You Tube

 

I may have met the east coast guys but only a brief hello so not sure if it was them or not. There was only a few climbers and a few rangers in that early though, so it could well have been them.

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damn daniel. I feel your pain. it took us two FULL days on a winter attempt to get to the bivy site below thin man's squeeze. It was the worst trenching I've ever done. I did a lot of the vertical leading with two tools and a shovel clipped to my harness.

 

bleh!

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I was thinking of your TR while I was climbing, but once you rap into the second col "up is down." Looks like you and Seth had some redemption on the ice pyramid!!!

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Wfinley-

 

The avalanche danger was a concern, but the sugar was surprisingly stable.  During the steep trenching things got a bit more sketchy since their was no pro and the sugar was not inspiring confidence.  The most scary moment was when Eric too a fall of the first cornices section while we were simul climbing together.  The second most scary moment is after the fall I led the rest of the corniced section and a 20-25 foot wide by 40ish feet long section of the cornice broke right in front of me, I almost crapped my pants. 

 

Daniel Harro

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Hey Daniel -

 

Way to trench! When we did the 2nd ascent in 1980 we had perfect neve or boilerplate blue ice all the way from the bivy notch to the summit. Below that the snow was firm and probably only mid-calf deep. And that was in April...

 

The worst trenching I've had to do was on the Rooster Comb climbing the SE FAce of the main peak in 1978. I was trenching my way up towards the ridge in bottomless sugar, when the top three feet of snow above me avalanched over the top of me. Buried both tools and held on for dear life!

 

Anyway, good on you for perseverance!

 

Pics of our climb here:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/921453/TR_West_Fork_Ruth_Huntington_E#Post921453

 

Jay Kerr

 

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Jay-

 

I love both of your trip reports, great reads for sure!! I still think climbing the col between the Rooster Comb and Huntington was crazy! I was looking at that during out trip and I seen quite a few slides on the entire face!

 

We were luck we experianced no avalanches!

 

Thanks for the TR's again Jay!!! Feel free to post others, I am sure you have some more cool adventures!

 

 

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Thanks. I am still working on the whole video editing thing and I am getting better with each video. I no know more about voice over so the next video should be better.

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