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elaine

Cool video - Dracula 5.12 RX

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Nice video! I witnessed Mr. Spohn do warm-up routine on the Red Wall once that was unbelievable. Up Thai Stick, down-climb (repeat three times), up Shear Stress, down-climb (repeat three times), up Mr. Bentley, down-climb (repeat three times). All sans rope.

 

 

Chad

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i think tom scales and others did the same on this line and others at broughton like bloodline back in 2003/2003??? it's always inspiring to see bolted lines get headpointed on marginal gear.

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Nice filming Juan. I am looking forward to our video shoot of me flailing up classic crack on top rope!

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Crimper's right.

 

From the PRG site via Tom Scales:

 

"Last but not least, Dracula (5.12a) is in my opinion the best route on the wall. Technical and pumpy, it keeps you thinking all the way to the intimidating finish. Originally an aid line, it was first free-climbed by our own Gary Rall back in 1990. In 2004, my friend Eric Vining and I made the first “clean” ascents, skipping all 10 bolts. The first half of the route is a bit dicey, with the first gear (a couple RPs) coming at the 3rd bolt. Keep it together while climbing the “ramp” and you’re rewarded with bomber placements at the 5th bolt; just don’t get too pumped plugging cams below the pod! We sent Bloodline sans bolts a few days later, which was far less nerve-racking, as it eats gear start to finish.

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Totally rad. I have spoken with Tom about his ascent of Dracula on gear. He head pointed it big time. Top roped it and figured out the gear to a tee. Had the gear on quickdraws for quicker placements. Then sent. Totally pround send considering it is rated 5.12a and Bloodline is rated 5.12b and Dracula is harder IMO.

 

Broughtons is great place to climb because it is hard to climb their.

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I didn't think that you guys actually had any decent rock down there, but that actually looks like ok climbing.

 

 

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Yeah, just to be clear - the climber/filmer aren't trying to say this was a first time gear lead of dracula. Matt has the route dialed and has done it on gear before. He's been working on the same with a few other climbs there (MF reunion, pinhead, etc) - maybe as part of mental training for another project.

 

This is just a great climb, and happened to make for something interesting for Juan to film and work on his video-making.

My Hat's off to both of them for being out there and having a good time doing what they enjoy.

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My Hat's off to both of them for being out there and having a good time doing what they enjoy.

 

I'm with Jeff. Nice work and thanks for sharing it! :tup:

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He's been working on the same with a few other climbs there (MF reunion, pinhead, etc

 

 

Wow, Pinhead seems like it would be a very dicey gear climb.

 

 

Chad

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