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[TR] Squire Creek Wall - Slab Daddy 7/31/2010

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Trip: Squire Creek Wall - Slab Daddy


Date: 7/31/2010


Trip Report:

Danny (Riley81) and I climbed Slab Daddy on July 30-31. We left the car around 12:30 pm Friday afternoon and bivied on top of pitch 6. Started climbing about 7 am on Saturday and topped out about 4:30 pm and scrambled to the summit.


We got some rain on the way up on pitch 15 but it was short lived and the rock dried quick. I dropped my belay device/biner on the top of pitch 15 and had to go munter for the rest of the way up and part of the way down...found the biner/device on top of pitch 12 and it worked well enough to see me the remainder of the way down. Stormy weather moved in quick once we got to the top of the climb and it started raining hard by the time we left pitch 6 in the dark...made it back to the car at 12:30 am...Good times!


Thanks David, Dan, Bill, etc for all the effort putting up this stellar route!!


BTW, a single bolt on pitch 6 is very loose (practically dangling in it's hole)...must have been hit by rockfall.


A view of the route



pitch 2



further up



bivy at top of pitch 6



the feature



almost there



on top





umbrella tree from above



whitehorse from the top



looking up from rappel



leaving pitch 6






Gear Notes:

Single rack to 5 inches with doubles from 0.5 to 2.5 inches.


Approach Notes:

Not bad...Sandals help with the creek crossing

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Nice job man!

We were looking over at Squire Creek Wall on Saturday wondering why the heck we were not on Olympus until the rain started and then I was glad we were not.

Way to get it in despite the weather.

Cheers man!

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nice work gents. any attempt to free the 20th? is f'ing hard imo.

haven't heard of any but the route developers using the 6th pitch bivy.

felt the same rain in the a.m. on sat. short lived. too bad about the storm later on.

i've done it twice now with the bivy on the 11th. looking for the c2c next time.




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no real attempt to free it on my part...it's mighty thin, eh!

we stopped at the top of pitch 6 to bivy because climbing with packs loaded with whiskey was becoming arduous...

those upper 2 pitches were the most challenging of the route i thought.

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Wow, thanks for the charming report and photos! I like the one of the umbrella tree from above; hadn't thought of that perspective. I'm really glad you enjoyed the top two pitches; it was such a blast digging my fingers into those cracks after all that smoothness below! Untouched stone, nothing like it.


We are aware of the broken bolt on pitch 6. DavidW is going up there later this week, but he's not bringing a hammer! He basically said he's not gonna be the route custodian. I can't blame him; we're busy. If I can squeeze in a day up there, I'll bring the drill and hammer...

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