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benmurphy

[TR] Squire Creek Wall - Slab Daddy 7/31/2010

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Trip: Squire Creek Wall - Slab Daddy

 

Date: 7/31/2010

 

Trip Report:

Danny (Riley81) and I climbed Slab Daddy on July 30-31. We left the car around 12:30 pm Friday afternoon and bivied on top of pitch 6. Started climbing about 7 am on Saturday and topped out about 4:30 pm and scrambled to the summit.

 

We got some rain on the way up on pitch 15 but it was short lived and the rock dried quick. I dropped my belay device/biner on the top of pitch 15 and had to go munter for the rest of the way up and part of the way down...found the biner/device on top of pitch 12 and it worked well enough to see me the remainder of the way down. Stormy weather moved in quick once we got to the top of the climb and it started raining hard by the time we left pitch 6 in the dark...made it back to the car at 12:30 am...Good times!

 

Thanks David, Dan, Bill, etc for all the effort putting up this stellar route!!

 

BTW, a single bolt on pitch 6 is very loose (practically dangling in it's hole)...must have been hit by rockfall.

 

A view of the route

a_view_up_route.JPG

 

pitch 2

pitch_23.JPG

 

further up

going_up.JPG

 

bivy at top of pitch 6

bivy_at_p6.JPG

 

the feature

the_feature.JPG

 

almost there

almost_there1.JPG

 

on top

bkh_on_top.JPG

 

dc_on_top.JPG

 

umbrella tree from above

umbrella_tree_from_above.JPG

 

whitehorse from the top

whitehorse3.JPG

 

looking up from rappel

view_up_from_rappel.JPG

 

leaving pitch 6

dark_rap.JPG

 

fun

fun.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Single rack to 5 inches with doubles from 0.5 to 2.5 inches.

 

Approach Notes:

Not bad...Sandals help with the creek crossing

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Nice job man!

We were looking over at Squire Creek Wall on Saturday wondering why the heck we were not on Olympus until the rain started and then I was glad we were not.

Way to get it in despite the weather.

Cheers man!

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nice work gents. any attempt to free the 20th? is f'ing hard imo.

haven't heard of any but the route developers using the 6th pitch bivy.

felt the same rain in the a.m. on sat. short lived. too bad about the storm later on.

i've done it twice now with the bivy on the 11th. looking for the c2c next time.

 

cheers.

jimbo

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no real attempt to free it on my part...it's mighty thin, eh!

we stopped at the top of pitch 6 to bivy because climbing with packs loaded with whiskey was becoming arduous...

those upper 2 pitches were the most challenging of the route i thought.

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Wow, thanks for the charming report and photos! I like the one of the umbrella tree from above; hadn't thought of that perspective. I'm really glad you enjoyed the top two pitches; it was such a blast digging my fingers into those cracks after all that smoothness below! Untouched stone, nothing like it.

 

We are aware of the broken bolt on pitch 6. DavidW is going up there later this week, but he's not bringing a hammer! He basically said he's not gonna be the route custodian. I can't blame him; we're busy. If I can squeeze in a day up there, I'll bring the drill and hammer...

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