benmurphy Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Trip: Squire Creek Wall - Slab Daddy Date: 7/31/2010 Trip Report: Danny (Riley81) and I climbed Slab Daddy on July 30-31. We left the car around 12:30 pm Friday afternoon and bivied on top of pitch 6. Started climbing about 7 am on Saturday and topped out about 4:30 pm and scrambled to the summit. We got some rain on the way up on pitch 15 but it was short lived and the rock dried quick. I dropped my belay device/biner on the top of pitch 15 and had to go munter for the rest of the way up and part of the way down...found the biner/device on top of pitch 12 and it worked well enough to see me the remainder of the way down. Stormy weather moved in quick once we got to the top of the climb and it started raining hard by the time we left pitch 6 in the dark...made it back to the car at 12:30 am...Good times! Thanks David, Dan, Bill, etc for all the effort putting up this stellar route!! BTW, a single bolt on pitch 6 is very loose (practically dangling in it's hole)...must have been hit by rockfall. A view of the route pitch 2 further up bivy at top of pitch 6 the feature almost there on top umbrella tree from above whitehorse from the top looking up from rappel leaving pitch 6 fun Gear Notes: Single rack to 5 inches with doubles from 0.5 to 2.5 inches. Approach Notes: Not bad...Sandals help with the creek crossing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson.g Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Nice job man! We were looking over at Squire Creek Wall on Saturday wondering why the heck we were not on Olympus until the rain started and then I was glad we were not. Way to get it in despite the weather. Cheers man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshamster Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 nice work gents. any attempt to free the 20th? is f'ing hard imo. haven't heard of any but the route developers using the 6th pitch bivy. felt the same rain in the a.m. on sat. short lived. too bad about the storm later on. i've done it twice now with the bivy on the 11th. looking for the c2c next time. cheers. jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benmurphy Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 no real attempt to free it on my part...it's mighty thin, eh! we stopped at the top of pitch 6 to bivy because climbing with packs loaded with whiskey was becoming arduous... those upper 2 pitches were the most challenging of the route i thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Wow, thanks for the charming report and photos! I like the one of the umbrella tree from above; hadn't thought of that perspective. I'm really glad you enjoyed the top two pitches; it was such a blast digging my fingers into those cracks after all that smoothness below! Untouched stone, nothing like it. We are aware of the broken bolt on pitch 6. DavidW is going up there later this week, but he's not bringing a hammer! He basically said he's not gonna be the route custodian. I can't blame him; we're busy. If I can squeeze in a day up there, I'll bring the drill and hammer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 approximate rating and grade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 The amazing google: http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/2010/03/squire-creek-wall-slab-daddy/ How you gonna climb 510+ slab for 23 pitches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 I want to do this route so badly. It looks amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.