Bronco Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 I really enjoyed this summer’s edition of the NWMJ and it inspired me to update my list of objectives. It also reminded me of rumors of a list of “cascade hard man” mountains like Johannesburg, Index N. Peak (or the full traverse?) and Nooksack Tower . Any others? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 Mt Si. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 I read somewhere about a list of peaks that Dallas Kloke considers the most difficult to climb in the state of Washington (and he ought to know). I don't have it written down but I think it went something like this (in no particular order): Inspiration Burgundy Spire SE Mox S Hozomeen Middle Index Johannesberg Lincoln Peak Nooksack Tower West Fury Bear Don't quote me on these - a Google search turns up nothing. I'm fairly confident on the first 8. I think I'd have to replace SE Mox with Lemolo and Lincoln with Assassin, but other than that, I think it's a pretty accurate list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 Da Toof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 I read somewhere about a list of peaks that Dallas Kloke considers the most difficult to climb in the state of Washington (and he ought to know). I don't have it written down but I think it went something like this (in no particular order): Inspiration Burgundy Spire SE Mox S Hozomeen Middle Index Johannesberg Lincoln Peak Nooksack Tower West Fury Bear Don't quote me on these - a Google search turns up nothing. I'm fairly confident on the first 8. I think I'd have to replace SE Mox with Lemolo and Lincoln with Assassin, but other than that, I think it's a pretty accurate list. not sure many peaks can be considered hardman peaks. Burgundy might be technically challenging by it's easiest route, but is still only 5.8 and thus probably not hard man. Similar with inspiration. Blake's list has some good ideas (http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/2009/08/unpublished-routes-modern-classics.html) add to Blakes list the handful of hard routes in Nelson/Potterfield, and you probably have a good start. Maybe add in the danger routes like Willis Wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted July 30, 2010 Author Share Posted July 30, 2010 Trogdor, thanks for the link to Blake's list. I think Tom/Dallas' list is more in line with what I was looking for, the most difficult peaks to summit by their easiset route. Not looking for the most difficult (or dangerous) routes per say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 Burgundy Spire is kind of an outlier in Dallas' list. Everything else on his list seems like significantly more work than Burgundy, which involves a downright easy approach (albeit with lots of vertical), and a straightforward climb and descent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 Bear is just a walk up!?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 except for Bear a pretty difficult looking list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 I'd be interest to hear how Tom ranks this list. Which ones are hardest. He's probably done them all. Havbe you climbed burgundy Tom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 Reality check time...the "hardman" aspect of these climbs is a thing of the past. Us wimps with the benefit of 21st century gear, an internet full of beta, established approaches, popularized objectives, GPS, cell phones, etc. shouldn't compare our exploits to those who did these climbs when they actually required being a "hardman." I think it was Ivan that coined the term "blue-collar trifecta" to describe J-berg, Nooksack tower, and the Index traverse. I think that is a fitting description. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 kit lewis is who we should ask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 also, it would have to be in winter, imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 also, it would have to be in winter, imo And in vintage gear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 I think it was Ivan that coined the term "blue-collar trifecta" to describe J-berg, Nooksack tower, and the Index traverse. I think that is a fitting description. I would second that Trifecta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 (edited) and then there are the hardest traverses - stuart range as/per croft - southern pickets - northern pickets - silverstar/wine - and original ptarmigan(still unrepeated after 60+ years). Edited July 31, 2010 by pms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted July 31, 2010 Author Share Posted July 31, 2010 I'd be interest to hear how Tom ranks this list. Which ones are hardest. He's probably done them all. Havbe you climbed burgundy Tom? That would be interesting, how about you Jim? You must've climbed most or all of them- I agree that this list is a bit outdated considering modern standards but these are still pretty respectable goals for a weekend warrior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 sorry bronc, I've only done 5, 4 when you take off bear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRbetaFlash Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 Hey do you have info on that original ptarmigan traverse? It's unrepeated? I noticed these routes do have a lot in common. lincoln, nookie, and index are all falling apart. Loose rock is scary. I suppose this is why 5.8-ish routes clean people's clocks some times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 It's unrepeated in terms of people climbing the same peaks on the same schedule as the original party, who were doing FA's along the way, without the benefit of route descriptions, etc. Those guys were the ultimate PNW bad-asses, in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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