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Kyle_Flick

[TR] NW Ridge of Mt. Sir Donald 7/24/2010

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Trip: NW Ridge of Mt. Sir Donald

 

Date: 7/24/2010

 

Trip Report:

One of the most aesthetic lines on the planet. It belongs in the "50 Classics". The clean and exposed ridge is not hard to climb and allows for swift movement up the soaring 2400'.

The descent for us felt a bit sketchy with snow and ice bits on the summit bypass. But once that melts off it should be fine. It nearly took us twice as long to descend than climb.

 

Gear Notes:

Ice ax, small rack.

 

Approach Notes:

If you get up early enough you can climb Uto on the same day as you approach.

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Yes Kurt, one of the folks in our party did take great photos of this beautiful peak and posted one on Facebook. Since I'm a Luddite when it comes to posting photos, I may not be able to post any on this forum.

Trust you had a good time in the Bugs.

Steve, we simul-climbed the entire route. We took the newer descent route that avoids the upper summit pyramid raps. August should be fine to do that descent route. Once back on the NW Ridge, the rap stations are in excellent shape thanks to the folks that put in the bolt anchors.

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The descent for us felt a bit sketchy with snow and ice bits on the summit bypass. But once that melts off it should be fine.

 

The newer descent is probably worse IMHO when the snow and ice are gone and there is nothing to hold the shit on those ledges together... downclimbing the upper summit pyramid or rapping it is a lot more attractive

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...tough crowd. My friend posted a slug of great pics of the route and descent on facebook. Does that help? I'll try and hyperlink them...or not...and just keep it mysterious.

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...tough crowd. My friend posted a slug of great pics of the route and descent on facebook. Does that help?

 

No it doesn't help. Facebook sucks and many of us aren't on it smiley_abused.gif

 

**Picture an angry mob of climbers marching down the road**

PICS OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN...PICS OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN...PICS OR..........

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How about those pictures? :)

 

Anyone been up this past week or heard what the snow conditions are now? Maybe know a contact number where I can get some up-to-date info?

 

Domo

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You can try 250-814-5202, Rogers Pass Duty Warden.

 

As to current conditions:

 

Subject: [MCR] Selkirks- Sir Donald, August 1st

Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 16:23:19 -0600

On the weekend, Sarah Hueniken and I guided Sir Donald as a party of four. Saturday on the hike to the bivi site the sky was completely obscured by smoke which by Sunday afternoon had mostly dissipated. The route itself has a couple of patches of snow which can be bypassed or easily climbed without ice axe or crampons. We took the West Face Bypass route on the descent and crossed 100m of snow where we used ice axes but did not need crampons. The final rappel station along the ridge (before you start descending the West Face) has been moved slightly north, which now eliminates the potential for rapping into space above the West Face.

 

The bivi site is free of snow and Wardens are checking for Wilderness Permits. Apparently a grizzly has been spotted around the bivi site.

 

Lilla Molnar

Mountain Guide

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Thanks. After last years grizzly confrontation on the hike up to Assiniboine, I would expect no less :)

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