Mountaindoc Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 Trip: South Early Winter Spire - Southwest Rib Date: 7/14/2010 Trip Report: Did this route with Ed. our first together. We got a late start, since I went to the wrong trailhead. I thought the approach was from the hairpin turnout, but actually it starts at the Blue Lake trailhead. So, we left the parking lot at 9:45. The trail is in good shape, with only the last 1/4 mile on snow. Even that late in the day, the snow was firm, and I made good easy progress with approach shoes. Ed chose to wear heavy boots, which are not needed at this time. We started the route at 11am. The split-tipped larch is easy to identify. The first pitch starts about 50 feet to the left, again, easy to identify. The classic 3rd pitch left angling crack is easy to see from the ground as well. The first pitch is fun, easy climbing. It is mostly 5.6/7 climbing with one move of 5.8 pulling past a bulge (100ft). Ed led the second pitch which is 5.6/7. Best to end the pitch at a tree at the base of the 3rd pitch crack (100ft). I led the third, and probably best pitch, which is mostly 5.7 with perhaps one move of 5.8 negotiating a lie-back in the middle of the crack. I rambled up a bit after the crack to a superb ledge at the base of pitch 4 (100ft). Ed led the next pitch and linked up pitches 4 and 5, which is mid 5th class, with a few moves of 5.6 face climbing. This link-up ended up at about 180ft, and Ed found himself with significant rope drag during the face climbing which wasn't ideal. If I were to do this again, I would probably link-up pitches 3 and 4. I had the pleasure of leading pitch 6, or 5 for us, the "bear hug". Very fun pitch! The various guide books rate it 5.7+ or 5.8, which I think is a stretch. The right edge of the column is very positive! And the rock is super grippy, with the crux consisting of only 2 moves (100ft). Ed led the next pitch, running pitches 7 and 8 together, this time with no rope drag issues. This was mid fifth class climbing along the skyline with amazing exposure (180ft)! I led the 9th pitch, which was low 5th class, ending at a rappel station (40ft). I belayed Ed up to me, then lowered him down to the saddle off of the rappel station, which seemed to be the quickest way through this section, since down climbing wasn't an option. After Ed was down, I untied and ran the rope through the rap rings, and had Ed lower me off. At this point there is a 50 ft walk or so to the final slab before the summit, which consists of a 30 ft mid fifth class crack. We chose to belay this out, as exposure is significant at this point. We topped out at 3:30 and hung out for awhile with one of the neighborhood mountain goats. We chose to descend the Southwest Couloir, which was easy going. We made 3 single rope rappels at the bottom, which got us through the majority of the snow. We made it back to the base at 4:45. The snow on the way out was very soft and wet at this point. We were able to glisade through most of it, and my feet were soaked by the time I hit dirt. Boots may have been nice, but we were back to the car and my flip-flops by 5:45, so I didn't care! We followed Jim Nelson's description of the route, which is excellent, however, he doesn't provide a good topo of the route. The best topo is found in the Falcon Guide Rock Climbing Washington. This is a very fun route! It would be a great first 5.8 lead for someone, as the climbing is mostly 5.7 with a couple moves of 5.8, and great exposure! Sorry I don't have any pictures. Gear Notes: We had a double rack of Camelots through 3.5 and a single 4.5 Camelot. I used one 3, 3.5, and 4.5 for the "bear hug". I think a single set of cams would suffice for this route, perhaps supplemented with some hexes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 that rappel near the top can be avoided with a down climb a little lower down. Maybe 30 feet before the station and obviously down to the right. There are small cracks (for pro) and jugs to keep it around mid 5th. Seems like this spot is right before it gets steeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 The better way is to just traverse the rabbit ears around to the left. Much cleaner and easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Hobbick Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 (edited) Moantaindoc, I burnt you a disc with the pictures. These are the best ones. Too bad your working tomorrow I wore Vasque sundowners(circa 1990) and don't consider them heavy. Edited July 21, 2010 by Ed_Hobbick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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