Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Mr_Christian

Mt Shuksan Southeast Ridge Route Beta

Recommended Posts

Hey Cascade Climbers,

We are going to head up Mt Shuksan this weekend on the Sulphide Glacier. We want to do the Southeast Ridge on the summit pyramid, but we can't find a good route description for it. Does anyone know where we can find one (online, books, etc.)? Or, does anyone have some good beta about that route on the summit pyramid?

 

Thanks ahead of time!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

An alternate route to the summit and a good choice if the main gully is busy, is the southeast ridge of the summit pyramid which requires a bit more mid-fifth class climbing. There is some loose rock on both routes so you must choose your holds carefully!

All I could find.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did the route last year. Mostly 4th, easy 5th class climbing. Bring lot's of long slings, and some #6 to #10 stoppers. When you get to the base of the summit pyramid, head towards the prominant notch in the lower rib; then just stay on the rib. Rock is pretty solid. Great route!

 

Here's a link to our TR

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=891998

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks summitchaserCJB, that is about all I could find as well. The route must be pretty straightforward since there is not much information out there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice, thanks BirdDog! Sounds like a great route up. I did the central gully to the summit a few years ago and I wasn't that wild about it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I always prefer the rock scrambling of the SE ridge to that funky S face. Low class 5, minimal rack. I don't remember loose rock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A couple quick questions for you. Did you simo climb most of the route? Or were you setting anchors at the end of every pitch and belaying each other up? And if you did belay each other, how many pitches of climbing did it end up being?

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We belayed most pitches,just because my partner felt more comfortable with that; but you could easily simul climb it. Prolly take about an hour to simul it. We used twin 30m ropes, maybe 6 - 8 pitches if I remember. There may be snow on the ridge this year though, don't know for sure. Have fun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been eyeing the SE Ridge, as it looks a lot more fun than a crammed gully. Thanks for all the beta!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×