TRbetaFlash Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Trip: Burgundy Spire - North Face Date: 6/26/2010 Trip Report: I'm trying my hand at a video trip report here. [video:vimeo]12967376 After little planning, we found the weather was going to be great Saturday and slowly lamer on Sunday. The climb can be done in a day but we had a full moon and a great night ahead so we camped out at the col to get an early start Sunday. The last part of the approach is quite snowy still, but it's melting fast. We climbed the wandering north face up through the center and to the right. This means we just kept going mostly right and ended up with the 5.7 face crack to the 5.7 offwidth final pitch. We were practically drowning in beta after reading Steph's route overlays from her site. Here's Rose getting up to the sandy platform by the top of Paisano Pinnacle. The only problem was that there are still large snow patches on the route, namely in the boulder tunnel. This is quite lame in climbing shoes! summit fun The raps were a bitch with two ropes. We saw another team haul ass with a single 60m rope but they snagged it once for about 20 minutes. Pulling two ropes over those shitty loose flakes is nerve-wracking. I'd probably bring one rope next time. The snow on the way down made for enjoyable plunge-stepping too. Gear Notes: gaiters #4 Camalot is useful raps can be done with a single 60m or doubles. Approach Notes: The stream at the bottom by the cars is rampaging and full of good water. It's the best spot to tank up. Snow for the last 1000 feet to the col as of 6/26. There's room for about 6 to bivy comfortably at the col right now. great spot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Thats gonna leave a mark! Great video! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 AWESOME video, Bill. Two years ago, we got our rope stuck at 3:46! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grinter Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Trip: Burgundy Spire - North Face The raps were a bitch with two ropes. We saw another team haul ass with a single 60m rope but they snagged it once for about 20 minutes. Pulling two ropes over those shitty loose flakes is nerve-wracking. I'd probably bring one rope next time. I've been there, got our ropes stuck twice on the Piasano Pinnacle. Nothing like prusiking in the moonlight. Nice climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordansahls Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Great TR. I did this route with the Piasano pinnacle start last year, our rope got stuck three times coming down from the summit at dark. There must be something about this route that causes midnight retreats. There is something super amazing about watching your friends disappear into the night with only their headlamps distinguishing them from the dark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRbetaFlash Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 I mentioned the stream at the bottom was great for drinking water. Not really. I failed to mention I got some parasite which ripped my intestines apart the night I got back. So if you drink that stuff, purify it first. I'm an idiot! We saw some guys topping out on Paisano that day too. It was the afternoon some time. The winds were already about gale force and they disappeared pretty quick. Weather got ugly. That helmet cam is turning out to be pretty cool. Aside from the dumb-ass block on my head (the camera), it's worth it to make fun flicks to share. This is a great route! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 as of last week, there was running water at the 6400' bench campsite. walk a few minutes climber's left (east) to find a stream. clean and parasite free for us! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 Great report, Thanks for the work on it, did you use apple? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRbetaFlash Posted July 8, 2010 Author Share Posted July 8, 2010 I used a gopro HD cam for the filming and iMovie for the editing. I don't really do anything crazy while editing these things since the footage is all pretty fun. When the videos get longer or I want custom effects, it's time for something like final cut. For those asking, the fun beta we found was from Ms. Abegg's site. I suggest you check this out. http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/burgundy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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