Mountaineering Boots

[kmehrtens]

I am planning a trip to climb Rainier next July-August with a guide and looking for a recommendation for plastic mountaineering boots. I am looking at the Asolo AFS 8000 (now on sale @ REI), Asolo AFS Evoluzione and the Scarpa Inverno. I would like to say that money is not a factoring issue. If I am going to go, I want to be warm & comfortable during the trip. I have done enough backpacking to know not to go cheap when it comes to your feet.

 

Any suggestions / opinions?

Thanks

[Winter]

I've loved my Invernos in the past but don't actually wear them much anymore. In the end, whatever fits best is the right choice. Usually, a boot will just feel right compared to the others, and that's the one to go with.

[t_rutl]

Why plastics? There are insulated synthetic/leather boots out there that are more than adequate for a summer Rainier trip and are lighter and much more comfy. Think Trango Extreme, Nepal Evo's, Scarpa Freney and boots in that category.

[summitchaserCJB]

+1 for t rutl's point. Nepal Evo's can't get any better IMO.

[medicsandy]

if money's a factor, check out the monsoon sale at whittakers website. they sell some gently used plastics for a good price.

[medicsandy]

forgot....I found my leathers at sierra trading post (online), with their 30% off and an extra 25% off deal....i got them for a great price.

[kurthicks]

Why plastics?

 

some guide services require plastics all summer. interesting, but true.

[summitchaserCJB]

Also check into IMG's used gear. Earlier in the season they had some double pastics for 100$.

[chris]

FYI - guide services often recommend plastic boots because on wet, overnight trips its easier to dry out a pair of liners (in your sleeping bag) then a pair of leather boots, no matter how well insulated.

[kmehrtens]

Chris is correct. All of the guide services require plastic. Which I don't really mind, except from the weight standpoint. I looked at a few other full leather boots, but I come back to the double plastic, since the guide services know more than me.

 

[t_rutl]

they also recommend them for Baker. usually to prevent user error or to insure the client doesn't end up bringing an inadequate boot or one that wasnt maintained. but none of the major guide companies require them for a summer trip up Rainier just to clarify.

 

if they are required for whatever reason or that is what you would prefer, i'd just rent unless you can find a dirt cheap pair or plan on winter climbing, trips to AK or other, higher elevs. just my 2 cents.

 

either way, have a fun trip and enjoy.

[Dane]

Not exactly true, does anyone "reguire" plastics? ....Kurt had it right the first time. He's also a working guide last I checked. Rental is a good choice. Made the same suggestion to a Rainier group myself a few days ago.

 

http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/index.php?&gigpag=rentals_rainier

 

 

Last week from what I saw many/most of the RMI clients were wearing Manooks.

 

There are a number of lwt weight fabric and leather boots that are a better choice for a summer ascent of Rainier than plastics. (any plastic)

[monoloco]

AAI did in fact strongly recommend plastics, but for early or late season climbs.

 

Having gone through several days of constant wet wx on an early season guided (AAI) Baker class, I can attest to the wisdom of plastic boots for multi-day trips in (likely) inclement weather - totally different than a day or overnight peag-bagging attempt. On day 5 of standing in wet snow and/or rain, it was very comforting to be able to dry the liners out.

 

I'll also highly recommend the Scarpa Alpha (or newer version, the Omega) as a much more "nimble" alternative to the Inverno.

Edited July 8, 2010 by monoloco

[Mike F]

I'm leaving it up to the guides but I hope they let me wear my Nepal Evos. BTW what do you guides wear on 3-4 day July and August trips where the weather is "supposed" to be stable?

 

Mike

[Dane]

Nepal Evo is one of the very best single boots ever manufactured. Good most places 9/10 months of the year. Easily warm enough for water ice and much of the easier alpine stuff in Canada during winter in moderate conditions. And a nice feel of satisfaction and over kill for anything in the Cascades except Rainier in winter. Nepal Evo is the boot of choice for the guides in Chamonix during summer climbs of Mt Blanc and many of the technical routes in the range. They typically have much worse weather and risk of cold injuries during summer than we do.

 

Not a guide these days but I can offer these comments.

Many long time guides (or most anyone who has climbed a lot in cold weather on big mtns) have really messed up feet from previous cold injuries and will wear modern dbl boots or lighter weight boots with built in gaiters (on summer snow climbs for durability) like a Batura or Phantom Guide where most clients can easily get by with much lighter weight single boots. So not always a great choice to mimic the most experienced guides working on Rainier

[kurthicks]

nepal evos. in fact, i find that guides often get by with lighter boots than clients since guides often do a better job of keeping their boots dry during multi-day trips. hence the single/double boot conundrum.

[Mike F]

Thanks for the replies. I just noticed a bunch of yellow hued boots in climb photos in RMI, AA,and IMG web sites.

 

Mike

[nhluhr]

Chris is correct. All of the guide services require plastic. Which I don't really mind, except from the weight standpoint. I looked at a few other full leather boots, but I come back to the double plastic, since the guide services know more than me.

They will let you wear leather if you know that's what you want to wear and the weather looks reasonable for them.